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    Carburetor float height adjustment

    Suzuki recommends using a "float level gauge" to double-check that float height has been set correctly. This device apparently screws into the float bowl drain Does anyone have experience with this? Why would it be needed if one sets float height carefully?

    I'm also looking for suggestions as to the best way to measure float height.
    sigpic[Tom]

    “The greatest service this country could render the rest of the world would be to put its own house in order and to make of American civilization an example of decency, humanity, and societal success from which others could derive whatever they might find useful to their own purposes.” George Kennan

    #2
    If, for some reason, your floats were a bit heavy, the fuel level would have to be a bit higher to give them enough bouyancy to lift the valve to a closed position. This would be in spite of "proper" height being set.

    When I check float height, I use a digital caliper. I use the hole depth gauge that sticks out the end when the instrument is extended, hold that against the gasket surface and fit the end of the body of the gauge against the float. As long as you measure the right part of the float, it works great.

    Maybe these two pics will help you:

    WHERE to measure on the float.


    How the calipers are held.



    .
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      #3
      Hi. Where can you get the device that screws into the carb drain plug hole to check float height with.

      Cheers

      Don

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for the explanation. The gauge is good for *nal-retentive types. And thanks for the photos. I've saved them for future reference. I have the calipers, so it should be easy.
        sigpic[Tom]

        “The greatest service this country could render the rest of the world would be to put its own house in order and to make of American civilization an example of decency, humanity, and societal success from which others could derive whatever they might find useful to their own purposes.” George Kennan

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View Post
          Hi. Where can you get the device that screws into the carb drain plug hole to check float height with.

          Cheers

          Don
          Make them yourself.
          Four extra drain plugs and a drill...Drill a hole straight through from the inside, right down the center.
          Four pieces of small metal tubing, perhaps brass tube from a model airplane shop?
          I made two short and two long to reach the 2 and 3 carbs easier.
          Glue them into the holes you drilled in the plugs, JB Weld is gasoline-proof.
          and some clear plastic tube which fits over the brass tubes.
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

          Comment


            #6
            Float height

            I always check float height when I rebuild carbs but there is one thing I've never understood: If it was correct, why would it ever change? Unless the float has a leak (a separate problem) or the needle valve is defective (easy to detect), I don't see how it could ever get out of adjustment.

            As a result of the above, I've never adjusted one yet.

            By the way, I just measure the proper distance on a skinny piece of cardboard, mark it off and use it as my gauge. It costs nothing and you can't get any more accurate than that...(and I don't think it has to be extremely precise, anyway).
            1980 GS1100E, the latest of many.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
              Make them yourself.
              Four extra drain plugs and a drill...Drill a hole straight through from the inside, right down the center.
              Four pieces of small metal tubing, perhaps brass tube from a model airplane shop?
              I made two short and two long to reach the 2 and 3 carbs easier.
              Glue them into the holes you drilled in the plugs, JB Weld is gasoline-proof.
              and some clear plastic tube which fits over the brass tubes.
              Thanks TKENT02. We dont have JB Weld here in Australia, but I get the idea. Araldite might do the trick, dont know if its affected by petrol though. Thanks again for your help.

              Cheers

              Don

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View Post
                Thanks TKENT02. We dont have JB Weld here in Australia, but I get the idea. Araldite might do the trick, dont know if its affected by petrol though. Thanks again for your help.

                Cheers

                Don
                I soldered mine

                Comment


                  #9
                  Here is a real easy way to check the gas level in the float bowls on the cheap. Just get some plastic tubing, I think refrigerater ice maker tubing is about the right size, and cut it into 4 one foot lengths. Remove the plugs from the bottom of the bowls, and with a little effort the plastic tubes will tread into the bottom of the bowl. Be sure to do this in a well vented area, as it is easy to spill fuel, and keep a fire exstinguisher handy. Sorry I don't have any pictures,but this has worked well for me. I set my floats like Steve does, but then always check the gas level in the bowls as this is more accurate because of variations in the floatation of the floats.

                  Greg O.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View Post
                    Thanks TKENT02. We dont have JB Weld here in Australia, but I get the idea. Araldite might do the trick, dont know if its affected by petrol though. Thanks again for your help.

                    Cheers

                    Don
                    JB Weld is just fancy epoxy...

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by t3rmin View Post
                      JB Weld is just fancy epoxy...
                      Epoxy with metal particles in it, very strong. I believe any epoxy is gasoline proof and would work fine.
                      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                      Life is too short to ride an L.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by rockford View Post
                        I always check float height when I rebuild carbs but there is one thing I've never understood: If it was correct, why would it ever change? Unless the float has a leak (a separate problem) or the needle valve is defective (easy to detect), I don't see how it could ever get out of adjustment.

                        As a result of the above, I've never adjusted one yet.

                        By the way, I just measure the proper distance on a skinny piece of cardboard, mark it off and use it as my gauge. It costs nothing and you can't get any more accurate than that...(and I don't think it has to be extremely precise, anyway).
                        I've always wondered the same thing. But seeing the stuff that the PO screwed up on this bike means that I need to be prepared for something that is way off. When I checked valve clearance, 7 of 8 were too tight, and several needed to go to shims two steps thinner.

                        I'll make one of those measuring tools. Maybe out of a thin sheet of aluminum to have a permanent reference.
                        sigpic[Tom]

                        “The greatest service this country could render the rest of the world would be to put its own house in order and to make of American civilization an example of decency, humanity, and societal success from which others could derive whatever they might find useful to their own purposes.” George Kennan

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by rockford View Post
                          By the way, I just measure the proper distance on a skinny piece of cardboard, mark it off and use it as my gauge.
                          I didn't really want to reveal my system, since it seemed a little rinky- dink. But that's excatly what I do. A nice piece of poster board, an exacto-knife and a digital caliper makes a nice guage that works well for me. When I'm done I throw it away.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            You guys are talking about two different things. There are two separate measurements, the first one is to adjust the floats when reassembling the carburetors so they should give the proper level of fuel when it's all put together and running. The second measures the actual level of the fuel while it is running, using the tubes in the float bowl drains. There can be quite a large difference even when the first adjustment has been done as accurately as possible. This quick and easy check can be done without taking anything apart.
                            Check your Suzuki manuals....
                            Last edited by tkent02; 10-27-2007, 02:53 PM.
                            http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                            Life is too short to ride an L.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View Post
                              Thanks TKENT02. We dont have JB Weld here in Australia, but I get the idea. Araldite might do the trick, dont know if its affected by petrol though. Thanks again for your help.

                              Cheers

                              Don
                              IMAGINE! The horror of it all

                              Comment

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