Will bike run without battery?

[ironb12s]

Forget that I said anything...

A high speed switching regulator based on something like a PIC chip would work better. It will allow the system to 'trickle' charge the battery to keep it up to full power. It'll also handle surges from the Stator better, and can be set to prevent surges due to electrical shorts etc.

Well that's how I'm looking at doing it.

You got it in one, the Buck regulator uses transistors, which generate no heat for switching. When they are POWER transistors, like in a stereo, they do generate heat, but the Buck doesn't use POWER transistors.

The line direct to the neg post, the muffin fan, where have I have seen this before? Oh yeah, it was over on ROV. :-D Even talked about oil cooling for the stator... The new regulator is supposed to cure all of the ills of heat at the stator and R/R.

But, in light of the questions, I think I'd prefer if y'all forgot about it until ROV has fleshed it out...sorry for the bandwidth...

[spchips]

I just ran a bike without a battery yesterday, but not on purpose.

I have a junk bike that I am using as a motor test stand. It started up, and ran, but the throttle stuck on a loose carb boot clamp. The ignition was bridged (no shutoff) because there was no power to the ignition cutoff switch. The motor started racing (not too high though). I pulled the battery charger/starter off, leaving open red and black. The motor started racing even more.

I finally tore off the ignition hotwire, which made it stop.

That was enough excitement for 1 day.

[bakalorz]

(they also explain why you should never jump your bike from a running car: while the car's 1400 watt generator/regulation is trying to keep the voltage at 14.5, the regulator on the bike is trying to use all the energy not required by generating heat , and a 1400 watt generator will win the battle every time)
http://tinyurl.com/24a6kv

Sigh ... I hate to pick nits, but I've seen several people post stuff like that, and its not quite right.

The Diodes in the rectifier section keep the regulator from being able to try to sink the excess voltage from the car, all it can do is sink all the current coming from the stator, which it is quite capable of doing ...

However, the slightly high voltage causes some parts in the control section of the regulator to overwork themselves, and the regulator will fail.

The end result is the same, (a toasted R/R) but the mechanism is a little different.

It also really peeves me off, because it would not have been much harder (or more expensive) for suzuki to design the regulator so that this would not be a problem. The problem is in the control circuitry, which is the cheap part, not the diodes or SCRs, which are the expensive parts.

Further, It does NOT take a car to do this. It can be done with a plug-in battery charger too, depending on the design of the charger. As long as it gets the system voltage high enough for a few seconds.

even some poorly regulated trickle chargers may eventually get the voltage high enough.

[davewallen]

Sigh ... I hate to pick nits, but I've seen several people post stuff like that, and its not quite right.

Never be afraid to pick nits with me.. especially when I was quoting another site..

I would rather know the correct info than go though life THINKING I did.

The difference between knowledge vs. ignorance.:shock:

[nabrams]

If your R/R wires are set up right - positive R/R output wire to positive battery cable (which connects to ignition wire) and negative R/R wire to ground - then you've got two voltage sources in parallel: Battery and R/R.
Start the bike with battery.
When you remove the battery, you still get voltage from the R/R, but at low RPM it's not nearly enough to power the lights and ignition.
So if you've got to ride with the charging system alone, you simply disable the headlight, tail-light, etc. and keep the RPM higher than 2000 RPM.