Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

I am afraid to ask this intake boot question

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    I am afraid to ask this intake boot question

    OK, I have '80 GS1100 with an idle that races when warm - searched & read all I could and figure I need new intake boots and possibly "intake o-rings". My questions:

    Suggestions on where to internet order the boots? I have been using Ronnies.com but cannot find the boots on the microfiche.

    On my GS1100, the boots appear to connect onto an extension of the cast cylinder. I have searched all of the drawings in my shop manuals and cannot figure out what/where the heck intake o-rings are supposed to be. Please help me as I must be an idiot.

    Here's a picture of my bike currently undergoing oil pan surgery to replace a stripped plug. I got it for free from a co-worker's shed where it had sat for 15 years. It only has 28K and was a dependable bike when he parked it (in favor of a new bike). Unfortunately, I found this forum at the tail end of my efforts to resurrect the beast but hey, better late than never! This is my first street bike and has been quite the learning experience - there have been moments (fitting the #$%#@% air cleaner boots onto the carbs comes to mind) when I have sworn that this will also be my last attempt at something like this as well. I am looking forward to the riding experience that so many of you tell of!

    #2
    Originally posted by oldslowrunner View Post
    OK, I have '80 GS1100 with an idle that races when warm - searched & read all I could and figure I need new intake boots and possibly "intake o-rings". My questions:

    Suggestions on where to internet order the boots? I have been using Ronnies.com but cannot find the boots on the microfiche.

    On my GS1100, the boots appear to connect onto an extension of the cast cylinder. I have searched all of the drawings in my shop manuals and cannot figure out what/where the heck intake o-rings are supposed to be. Please help me as I must be an idiot.

    Here's a picture of my bike currently undergoing oil pan surgery to replace a stripped plug. I got it for free from a co-worker's shed where it had sat for 15 years. It only has 28K and was a dependable bike when he parked it (in favor of a new bike). Unfortunately, I found this forum at the tail end of my efforts to resurrect the beast but hey, better late than never! This is my first street bike and has been quite the learning experience - there have been moments (fitting the #$%#@% air cleaner boots onto the carbs comes to mind) when I have sworn that this will also be my last attempt at something like this as well. I am looking forward to the riding experience that so many of you tell of!
    When you take off the carbs and those little black boots you're gonna see the little intake runners that are bolted onto the cylinder head. You have to remove those and you'll see the O-rings. Becareful though. The screws or bolt (whatever is holding them down) tend to strip. You can reorder then from here: www.cycleorings.com. Its run a by a forum member and they say he has the best O-rings you can buy anywhere. As to where you can find the black intake boots themselves you got me. I still can't find them

    Comment


      #3
      No o-rings as I recall on the 16-V engines. Check out the link below...great place to order from.

      Comment


        #4
        Lucky him. Then sounds like those little black intake boots are gonna be the culprit

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Ironriot View Post
          Lucky him. Then sounds like those little black intake boots are gonna be the culprit
          That's my guess...:-D Wouldn't hurt to order the clamps as well.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Dave8338 View Post
            That's my guess...:-D Wouldn't hurt to order the clamps as well.
            The ones on mine are stainless I'm reusing them \\/. Now watch it come back and bite me in the ass

            Comment


              #7
              There are no O-rings on your bike. If there is an intake leak (which it certainly sounds like there is, there are 4 places to check/verify/repair/replace.

              1) Where the carb boot clamps onto the head. Either the clamp is not tight enough or the boot is not fully on. Also, the boot can get hard and refuse to seal.
              2) Where the carb boot clamps onto the carb. (See 1 above for places to check).
              3) Where the airbox clamps onto the carb. Mine is warped, and we (bwringer and I) had to push the center of the box onto the inner carbs while the other screwed down the clamps. On yours, the pliable piece can also get hard and can be replaced.
              4) Where the filter box lid bolts down to the filter box (least likely). It should have an excellent seal. I put duct tape on mine because the lid was no longer present.

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks to all,

                1) & 2) These boots have rounded shoulders inside and I had to use lube to get 'em to slip off and back on and they seemed plenty tight The clamps are the originals, but seem to be functioning fine as well. What's the easiest method to check for leaks around these areas? Someone once told me to spray WD-40 around intakes when the engine is running & if it dies, you got a leak there.

                3) The inner two boots fit very poorly and I could only get the top on to the carb - they are barely on at the bottom of the flange. What's the consensus on going to K&N filters (individual fits have to virtually eliminate the chance of a leak there, no)?

                4) Why would this matter like the other 3 possibilities? Is it because the airflow in is less restricted? If so, if I switch over to K&N filters, will I have an even worse problem (is that why I have seen references to having to re-jet when going the K&N route)?

                "Sometimes I feel like I am parked diagonally in a parallel universe."

                Comment


                  #9
                  Ther are two sets of boots, and it sounds like they may be getting confused. The ones between the carb and the engine can be tested for leaking by spraying oil on them. Mine leaked and I fixed the leaks with glue.

                  I doubt if a small leak in the rear ones, between the carbs and the airbox, would have much effect. You'd just get a little unfiltered air. A big leak could affect the flow, I suppose.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Bizcocho View Post
                    Ther are two sets of boots, and it sounds like they may be getting confused. The ones between the carb and the engine can be tested for leaking by spraying oil on them. Mine leaked and I fixed the leaks with glue.

                    I doubt if a small leak in the rear ones, between the carbs and the airbox, would have much effect. You'd just get a little unfiltered air. A big leak could affect the flow, I suppose.
                    Actually, the rear ones between the carbs and the airbox have a HUGE influence on the performance. We did mine a few weeks ago, and we did not get the rear boots on correctly fo the two inside carbs. The bike would not even keep running unless I kept my hand on the throttle and the choke on.
                    Oldslowrunner, that is your problem, 99% certain. They must go fully on, top and bottom. The inner ones were the guilty party on my bike as well. To solve the problem, it took two people. One person took a long screwdriver and pressed the box onto the carbs from the inside of the airbox (with the filter removed and clamps loosened, of course). The other person verified that the boot was completely seated on the carb, top and bottom, then tightened the clamp. This is easier to do if all clamps, font and back of the carbs, are loose. Do the innner ones first, then the outer ones, then tighten the front clamps on all four carbs.
                    These bikes are very sensitive to carb lean conditions, which is why even the top of the airbox comes into play. If it is not present and sealed properly, the bike will run lean.
                    Whatever you do, get it running correctly before even considering K&N pods. They make the bike run even leaner, and are difficult, though not impossible, to jet properly.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I spray carb cleaner on the boots and if the idle lowers you have a leak. Do this on the airbox boots also.
                      I like the K&Ns because it makes carb removal a snap but you do have to drill out the slides and I recommend a Dynojet jet kit.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                        I spray carb cleaner on the boots and if the idle lowers you have a leak. Do this on the airbox boots also.
                        I like the K&Ns because it makes carb removal a snap but you do have to drill out the slides and I recommend a Dynojet jet kit.
                        CHEF what do you mean drill out the slides. Can you explain further please?

                        Cheers

                        Don

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Suzuki_Don View Post
                          CHEF what do you mean drill out the slides. Can you explain further please?

                          Cheers

                          Don
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X