Someone help me out please...

[Guest]

I just cleaned and put my carbs back together, mounted on the bike and started her up. I did bench synch them. The problem i am having is that my idle adjust screw is all the way out...as in no effect on the throttle, and the bike is SUPER slow to come down from throttle when you blip it. It revs really high and hangs there for a good while and then comes down very slowly. I know they need synched with a manometer after cleaning, but what adjustment is needed to correct this? Is it the fuel screws or air screws (fuel are one turn out at the moment and air are 1 and 3/4s out)

Any help would be appreciated.. Thanks!

TCK

[Nessism]

You have a lean condition causing your hanging idle. Could be caused by a vacuum leak (from carb boots and/or O-ring) or carb mixture.

I assume you have VM carbs based on the reference to a fuel screw. I'd try turning in the air screws to start, they are easier to reach. If the bike doesn't start running better at 1 turn, try opening the fuel screw a little - 1/2 or so. Of course, you need to vacuum sync as well. May as well do it now.

[TheCafeKid]

You have a lean condition causing your hanging idle. Could be caused by a vacuum leak (from carb boots and/or O-ring) or carb mixture.

I assume you have VM carbs based on the reference to a fuel screw. I'd try turning in the air screws to start, they are easier to reach. If the bike doesn't start running better at 1 turn, try opening the fuel screw a little - 1/2 or so. Of course, you need to vacuum sync as well. May as well do it now.

Yeah VMs...tried the air screw..no help..tried turning out the fuel screw..no help...it acts as if its running on idle..even tho its not..Im getting thoroughly frustrated...Its running smoother..just wayyyy too fast...im now kinda wishing id never cleaned the damn carbs..I did however move the needle down to the forth notch from the top...as per Keiths suggestion...Im completely confused now and completely frustrated..GRRRR

[trippivot]

readjust the float heights to give it more fuel.

the fuel level should be at or about the bowl mating surface . maybe just below by 1-2 mm.

then the fuel mixture screw should effect your idle after some tinkering.
good luck

[TheCafeKid]

Float levels were set when i cleaned and rebuilt them...as per spec..so i dont think its that. But seriously thanks for your input though:-D Im wondering if i have an intake leak..i dont believe i did before, and i dont know how suddenly it would, or suddenly be so bad..I dunno guys, im just gettin really pi$$ed off. Granted this is the first four that i have ever attempted to seriously tune and work on all alone, and only the 3rd four ive owned (the other two being hondas that i really did very little with) but ive never had this much trouble getting a bike to run right. ](*,)

[chef1366]

Is the speedo cable hanging up somewhere?
Did you do a valve adjustment?
New o-ring on the intake boot? Spray carb cleaner around the boots and see if the idle dives.

[trippivot]

regardless it needs more gas.

time to take a break don't get frustrated. a clear head will help identify the root of the problem.

some times the pilot circut needs to be cleaned twice or three times. those are very tiny passages in there.

I blow carb cleaner through the air bleed, pilot jet, bypass holes, and mixture screw orifices both directions over and over and over again until a visual confirms there is flow through every passage in the pilot/bypass circut of the carb bodies.

air leaks around the carb to head insulators are easy to find with spray cleaner.

[Steve]

Did you do a valve adjustment?

Valves are done. I helped him with that a couple of weeks ago. 8-[


.

[TheCafeKid]

regardless it needs more gas.

time to take a break don't get frustrated. a clear head will help identify the root of the problem.

some times the pilot circut needs to be cleaned twice or three times. those are very tiny passages in there.

I blow carb cleaner through the air bleed, pilot jet, bypass holes, and mixture screw orifices both directions over and over and over again until a visual confirms there is flow through every passage in the pilot/bypass circut of the carb bodies.

air leaks around the carb to head insulators are easy to find with spray cleaner.

Yeah the pilot circuit was flowing freely (so freely i caught carb cleaner in the eye...DOH!) I made absolutely sure that they were doing so because i had that problem on the last set of carbs i messed with (thought i cleaned them well, but hadnt cleaned the pilots well enough) I am begining to think its the boots...thats the next guess...

[Nessism]

Yeah the pilot circuit was flowing freely (so freely i caught carb cleaner in the eye...DOH!) I made absolutely sure that they were doing so because i had that problem on the last set of carbs i messed with (thought i cleaned them well, but hadnt cleaned the pilots well enough) I am begining to think its the boots...thats the next guess...

Please tell me you changed the intake boot O-rings.[-o< Or...maybe I should say...hope you didn't change them since they are sure to leak thus this is the cause of the problem.

[TheCafeKid]

Please tell me you changed the intake boot O-rings.[-o< Or...maybe I should say...hope you didn't change them since they are sure to leak thus this is the cause of the problem.

Better question is DO I HAVE intake boot rings...my carbs dont bolt up to the head like most of your GS's They have a manifold that comes off the head and has rubber insulators on the end of them...are there orings under those?? or could those themselves be the problem??

[Ironriot]

The o-rings are under that little bolt-on manifold that the black boots attach too. When you take off the carbs you then take off the black boots and then you'll see the little intake things. they should be attached too the head with two bolts. Well you take those off and viola thats were the orings are. Also I'd check the boots themselves. They have o-rings also. They could potential leak

[TheCafeKid]

Gotcha thanks Riot...I'll investigate tomorrow. I hope thats the problem..i cant see it being anything else...it ran halfway decent before..now its just all over the place...*sigh* shoulda never messed with it.

[BassCliff]

Take a look

The o-rings are under that little bolt-on manifold that the black boots attach too. When you take off the carbs you then take off the black boots and then you'll see the little intake things. they should be attached too the head with two bolts. Well you take those off and viola thats were the orings are. Also I'd check the boots themselves. They have o-rings also. They could potential leak

From Mr robert barr's http://www.cycleorings.com

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Sure sounds to me like you have the bench synch messed up.
If the idle adjuster tip is no longer in contact with the throttle cable pulley and it still idles high, the slides are synched poorly.
Re-bench synch. I have a post that details the bench synch if you need it. I'm sorry to not have the link handy but I believe it is post #36 at Hoomgars (a member here) thread in the tech section, "GS1K bad fuel economy re-jet Attn Keith Krause", or similar to that. If you follow that, you're good. Just a note: If your carbs have a master carb (always #3), then simply set the other slides to match the master #3 slide. You can tell because there's no slide adjusting screw for a master carb.
You will still need to synch with a vacuum tool. Since you've had this problem with bench synching, I can see where the final vacuum synch may result in further problems. If you adjust the slides wrong, you can get them to the point where the bike is idling high even though there's no longer any contact between idle adjuster and pulley, just as I think you've done already. I have other posts explaining how to avoid this condition if you search.
If for any reason you give up, you can send the carbs to me. I think you can do it if you read and take your time.
But if you can't bench synch them, I want you to know you have the option of sending them to me. As long as they're mechanically operating right, I'll give them a good bench synch and adjust all jetting related screws to what I call "ballpark" settings...settings that should allow for a good start up and vacuum synch.
The shipping will cost you but my work won't cost a penny.
Just so you know you have the option. Don't get frustrated!