Someone help me out please...

[TheCafeKid]

Keith i looked all over for that post and didnt find it...and yeah im so frustrated im seriously considering taking you up on your offer...I'll even pay for the tune. I really want to be able to do it myself but I am without garage to work in, and limited on tooling, time and patience at the moment. Ive been working a bazillion hours a week lately, and the few nice days i have to work on anything im at work...love ohio weather. If i do decide to ship them out to you what do you need from me as far as parts...obviously the carbs themselves and??

Thanks again

josh

[Suzuki_Don]

Keith i looked all over for that post and didnt find it...and yeah im so frustrated im seriously considering taking you up on your offer...I'll even pay for the tune. I really want to be able to do it myself but I am without garage to work in, and limited on tooling, time and patience at the moment. Ive been working a bazillion hours a week lately, and the few nice days i have to work on anything im at work...love ohio weather. If i do decide to ship them out to you what do you need from me as far as parts...obviously the carbs themselves and??

Thanks again

josh

Here is the shortcut.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=80632&highlight=GS1K

Cheers Don

[TheCafeKid]

Thanks Don...you're a peach! I looked in every post i could find, obviously didnt go that far back. Ok so Keith im gonna give it a go on my own here...and failing that I would still love to take you up on your offer. Like i said i really want/need to learn to do this on my own, sometimes is so damn frustrating and im scared to death im gonna fuxor something up so bad its gonna kill my motor. Yesterday i did a little tinkering and kicked it over and it instantly reved so hard it spun the baffle plate in my pipe out of possition (it was loosened i little i did find out after that..lol) I freaked out needles to say cos im guessing but it had to be burried in tach. Obviously i immediately shut it down and adjusted what i had messed with back to where it was. Im gonna look at the boots and orings, and ill prolly just replace them whether i think they need them or not just to eliminate any possible screwups there. The one promissing thing is even though its idling high, its a hell of a lot smoother than before. Tho i do still smell gas in the exaust. Im starting to think that im just not used to smelling a non-EPA screwed with motor. Sorry to be frustrated and/or frustrating..carbs and tuning them has always been something i either left to my fellows who were better at it, or had someone help me with. I also have a question about Hooms steel wool idea...i love my VH and i love the sound but would like to quiet it just a touch...unfortunately the PO left about 4 inches of the i duno what you call it but the baffle pipe inside the pipe...is that enough to wrap some wool on?? or would it do nothing?? I know that would adjust my jetting a little too...so many thoughts..

Thanks again all of you...i really mean it.

TCK

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I think you can do it too. If you're patient and follow my advice at that link, you'll have the bench synch done correctly and the bike will start up right and you can continue with your tuning.
As for the final vacuum synch, that's not hard either but can take some time to learn. Biggest worry is over-heating if you take too long.
Yes, if worse comes to worse, I'll bench synch them for you and initially set the screws to something sensible for starters. From what I've read the carbs are already clean and rebuilt/floats adjusted. The jet needles are at position 4, which seems like a good setting for your pipe and pods. So I wouldn't need any special tools or parts for what needs to be done. I'm guessing round trip shipping would cost about $30 to $40. You'll also still need to synch with the vacuum tool when you get them back.
If road testing shows the jet needles need further adjustment, the carbs will have to re-bench/vacuum synched again. Obviously, doing this yourself is best because it could take a couple tries.
I just don't want you giving up or getting too frustrated over the whole thing. If that happens, I'll be happy to set them up for you as long as they're mechanically in good condition (no stripped hardware) and I can make the adjustments necessary. But you will still need to do that synch and fine tune the jetting.
I'll try to help any way I can if you ask questions.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Oh...I have no comment on using steel wool for packing the silencer. Seems like it would turn to rust and blow out very soon but I really have no experience with steel wool.
I'd buy the packing that's sold for the pipe. I think it's about $18. It will quiet it down some if the packing is basically gone. Still, the V&H megaphone starts to howl above 5K.

[TheCafeKid]

ok i performed the bench sync as per instructions..very thorough btw..was pretty easy..Two problems i am seeing now...when i hooked the tank back up and primed the carbs gas poured out of the overflow nozzle on the number two carb..and second...i think part of my poor return is the throttle shaft itself is moving very slowly...do i need to grease it up more? and on the overflow is one of my float valves sticking?? they all seemed to spring back fine when i checked durring disassembly/reassembly...

[chef1366]

Either you have a bad o-ring under the float seat or the float is sticking.
The float seat pops out and there is an o-ring on it.

[TheCafeKid]

Ok currently im selling tickets to a "Slap Cafe Upside the Head with a Fish" function...here's some first time noobie $hite right here....so my sticking throttle?? Cos i didnt clean the number four slide barrel well enough..it had *just* enough gummy crap in it to make the slide stick, in turn making them all stay up...i noticed this after takeing the top side of them back apart and pulling the throttle shaft out thinking IT was sticking because i hadnt greased it enough...Im an idiot...now they all slide freely, and they did before i had originally put them together, but admittedly they were still a lil wet with spray cleaner..now as far as the float leak, im not that far but Chef i think you may be right...you are talking about the little red orings right?

[chef1366]

How much for the ticket?? :-D
My o-ring is black. Not sure if there are red ones. It's under the float needle and seat. Should be a phillip screw holding it in. They should of all been replaced. Did you get the o-ring kit from Mr. Barr and do a cleaning with the Carb cleaning series on this site?

[TheCafeKid]

How much for the ticket?? :-D
My o-ring is black. Not sure if there are red ones. It's under the float needle and seat. Should be a phillip screw holding it in. They should of all been replaced. Did you get the o-ring kit from Mr. Barr and do a cleaning with the Carb cleaning series on this site?

OHhh no i dont have those at all..just a red round gasket...my carbs if you read that post keith and i have going (Mr Keith Krause please Help!) you'll see my 750B carbs are an odd ball early VM design that they ( id assume) imediately improved upon...for instance the slides are the same but dont use the brass plate between the slide arm and the needle and there are no spacers, the needle fits directly into the slide arm...It had me panicking thinking i had missing parts when i took them apart to clean them Weird..

AT ANY RATE...after finding my flub on the slide valve..i double checked the float seat to make sure i didnt screw anything up..and i did...those little red gaskets have a lip and go on a certain direction..i flipped it and to make doubly sure i switched it from the 2 carb to the 3 and vice versa..no more leaky leaky..yay! Whats more, i hooked the carbs back up..after bench syncing them YET AGAIN...and lo and behold..DRASTIC improvement...i still have a slow return to idle...and i have my fuel screws out 2 and 1/2. I also found ONE of my boot rings is in fact leaking (number one) as i sprayed carb cleaner around it and the engine bogged considerably. Sooo its back to Mr Barr for some orings...and ill try the fuel screws out another 1/2 turn..if thats still too lean it will be time for bigger mains.. i reinstalled the current 115, yeah i know i was told to go bigger, but i figured if i could get it to run right with the ones i have by adjusting the needle great, if not, taking the float bowls off and changing the main jet is no biggie..Ive since become an expert at speedily taking off the carbs and putting them back on...lol Do you guys know of a good place to get those rubber boots or does Robert Barr carry those too??

Thanks again for everyones help...i still need to vaccum synch..but at least im getting somewhere now..THANK GOD :shock:

[Dave8338]

...should be # 16 on the fiche. Bikebandit has quality and speed going for them. Have a look.

http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/parts/Suzuki/GS750B/1977/1026200#stay#stay

[TheCafeKid]

Yowsers those are more spensive than i thought they'd be...next question...all the boots actually feel good, look good and flex well, no cracks or dryness to them...could it just actually be the Oring inside rather than the boot leaking? Im not trying to be cheap here, but if the boots themselves are good and its just the rings leaking id rather not replace the boots yanno?

[Dave8338]

Yowsers those are more spensive than i thought they'd be...next question...all the boots actually feel good, look good and flex well, no cracks or dryness to them...could it just actually be the Oring inside rather than the boot leaking? Im not trying to be cheap here, but if the boots themselves are good and its just the rings leaking id rather not replace the boots yanno?

If the boots are flexible and there are no cracks in them and the rubber has not pulled away from the metal flange...it WILL be the o-rings! Had a similar problem with mine and the rings did the trick. 8-[

[chef1366]

If the boots are good get the o-rings from Mr. Barr.

[Dave8338]

If the boots are good get the o-rings from Mr. Barr.

What he said...:-D