Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Clutch slip

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
    #1

    Clutch slip

    I thought I had my clutch slip taken care of. Well I thought wrong! I put what I thought were V&H heavy duty clutch springs in. That was what they were advertised as from an Ebay deal a couple of years back. I just purchased a set of Barnett HD clutch springs and plan on running 3 Barnett and 3 stock.
    My question is the clutch does not slip on warmer days. On cool days it does slip under heavy load at about 6000rpm. I run 20/50 Gastrol because I live in a very hot area. Now that it has cooled down could the fix be as easy as switching to 10/40? I also run an oil cooler so I don't think my oil is getting hot enough or thin enough.
    What do ya all think??
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Tags: None
    #2
    your plates worn at all? Im guessing not since you seem to know what youre doing. What about trying some synthetic? or a blend?? Ive been told it seems to help in the clutch and trans department a bit...

    Comment

      #3
      Another thought, maybe bypass the cooler and see if that helps...i dunno much about them but im sure there's a way to do it. While i know you want to keep that cooler that would at least let you know if thats part of the issue.

      Comment

        #4
        The clutch fibers and steels are good. When I but these different clutch springs in I didn't notice a difference in the clutch pull so I think they are stock or the CSK 10% stronger than stock springs. I had the CSK springs installed prior to switching and it slipped the same as now. I parted with those old springs but I don't think it really matters. I'm going to try changing the oil to 10/40 and the Barnett springs.

        Isn't it like 3am there???
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment

          #5
          yeah..i have mostly late shifts this week and im a short sleeper anyway..just got home from work at midnight thirty, takes me a bit to wind down. I dunno what springs are in mine..i havent checked, but the PO was working this bike toward a dragger i think, HUGE rear sprocket and the clutch felt like arm wrestling a gorilla when i first bought it, but ive since gotten used to it. It for sure will near toss you off the back if you dump it, and not slip a whistle.
          Last edited by Guest; 11-01-2007, 03:22 AM.

          Comment

            #6
            I ran a full set of Barnett springs and plates in the 850. The clutch had a very heavy feel to it, so I took 3 out and replaced them with standard springs. I have had no slip and a far better feel to the clutch operation.
            When you pull the clutch down again, rough up the metal plates with some 400 wet & dry paper and thoroughly clean them afterwards with metholated spirits and compressed air. That may help your fibre discs hold better.
            Is that 20/50 Castrol an auto grade oil? If so, you should replace the fibre discs and start running MC synthetic. I run 10/40 in winter and 15/50 in summer.
            The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

            GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
            GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
            GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
            GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

            http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
            http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg

            Comment

              #7
              I roughed up the metal discs in my 700 last time I was in there. Big difference!

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                The clutch fibers and steels are good. When I but these different clutch springs in I didn't notice a difference in the clutch pull so I think they are stock or the CSK 10% stronger than stock springs. I had the CSK springs installed prior to switching and it slipped the same as now. I parted with those old springs but I don't think it really matters. I'm going to try changing the oil to 10/40 and the Barnett springs.

                Isn't it like 3am there???

                In my experiences trying to fix a slipping clutch by swapping oils is simply band-aiding the real issue. So you have new springs. I have bone stock OEM springs, and they bite perfectly adequate, so I don't think you're issue is springs. You say you have "good" drive plates.. did you mic them up? All within spec? If so how about the steels are they blued or warped ? This aggravates slippage as now the steels are "glazed". Lastly on my bike, I had an excessively worn bronze thrust washer (the grooved one behind the primary basket). This allowed excessive side to side slop in my clutch assembly. A new washer from Suzuki took out a lot of excessive play. Hope you find the issue...
                The fact your clutch slips cold is hinting you have a plate clearence problem, as once your plates heat up, the thickness of the plates grows. Once your clutch is hot and expanded you don't have slip....
                Last edited by Guest; 11-01-2007, 02:52 PM.

                Comment

                  #9
                  I used to run 20/50 before the restoration. After 100,000+ miles no clutch problems except the classic basket rattle.
                  I had my clutch basket welded and heavier damper springs installed by V&H as part of the rebuild. Put in 20/50 as usual and the upgraded clutch dragged real bad. Put the factory recommended 10/40 back in and that solved the problem.
                  I would try the 10/40.
                  And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                  Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                  Comment

                    #10
                    I had exactly the same slip while cold problem. Used Scotch Brite and cleaned all of the plates and steels. Problem solved.

                    Thanks,

                    Comment

                      #11
                      As a smart member here always states "to measure is to know". (Thanks Steve)
                      I pulled the clutch apart and measured the fibers, steels and springs. The steels were all good. I took some 400 grade sandpaper to them and cleaned them with brake cleaner. The fibers were in spec but barely. The springs were ALL junk. If they were V&H HD springs as advertised on Fleabay I'm Uncle Sam.
                      I but the old fibers back in and shimmed all the springs to 40mm until I receive the Barnett HD springs.
                      Took it for a ride and no more slipping. Couldn't keep the front tire on the ground.
                      Thanks everyone.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Mr. chef1366,

                        Did you take pictures? I should make another pictorial guide.

                        Thank you for your indulgence,

                        BassCliff

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
                          Mr. chef1366,

                          Did you take pictures? I should make another pictorial guide.

                          Thank you for your indulgence,

                          BassCliff
                          When the Barnett springs come in I'll take some pics.
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                            When the Barnett springs come in I'll take some pics.
                            That would be awesome. I'd like to know how to rebuild my clutch. I know I'll have to someday. Thanks Mr. chef1366!

                            Thank you for your indulgence,

                            BassCliff

                            Comment

                            Previous template Next
                            Working...
                            X