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    front brake / blinker issues

    1980 gs850G

    shes finally getting close to being mechanically sound, i actually am now using her to get around town! life is much better on 2 wheels, but, theres still a couple annoyances.

    issue 1 - the front brake is very spongy and weak. ive bled and bled and bled the brakes but they aren't getting any better. Pumping it up helps a little but the lever still reaches the grip before i get any serious braking power. not sure what would happen in the case of an emergency stop, but it would definitely be exciting. :shock: anything i can look for, could my brake lines be worn out?

    issue 2 - the blinkers don't blink, they turn on properly, but they just stay on.

    #2
    Hi,
    Make sure that you have a 5/8 inch front master cylinder fitted ( usually 15.83mm with 41.5mm travel) and not 1/2 inch one. The size is stamped on the casing. For a double disk you need at least a 5/8. The 1/2 inch gives the symptoms you describe, although stopping is normally good right against the grip, but with much longer travel.
    Hope this helps.

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      #3
      Mr. luketorjesen,

      You might try pulling the brake lever as tight as you can, tie it off with something (zip tie or twine) and leave it overnight. Take it off in the morning and see if it works better. If not, bleed some more and try it again.

      Thank you for your indulgence,

      BassCliff

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        #4
        You can actually see the rubber brake lines bulge if they are done. Spongy brakes can be an assortment of issues. Air in the master cylinder. Old seals in the master cylinder. Old seals in the caliper. Old brake lines. They make rebuild kits for the calipers and the M/C.

        On the blinkers if all the grounds are good and you have the correct bulbs I'd change the blinker relay.
        Last edited by chef1366; 11-03-2007, 11:42 PM.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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          #5
          As for the spongy brakes, I can attest that even a properly bled system will feel soft if the lines are shot. If you are running the original brake hoses, get rid of 'em and replace with some teflon steel braided lines. I couldn't believe the difference. I can't bring the lever to the bar now, no matter how hard I try. One finger will chirp the tire.
          NO PIC THANKS TO FOTO BUCKET FOR BEING RIDICULOUS

          Current Rides: 1980 Suzuki GS1000ET, 2009 Yamaha FZ1, 1983 Honda CB1100F, 2006 H-D Fatboy
          Previous Rides: 1972 Yamaha DS7, 1977 Yamaha RD400D, '79 RD400F Daytona Special, '82 RD350LC, 1980 Suzuki GS1000E (sold that one), 1982 Honda CB900F, 1984 Kawasaki GPZ900R

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            #6
            All of the above are good suggestions, but here is one that won't cost you any money. Crack open the banjo bolt at the master cylinder after placing a rag around the joint to catch fluid. Remove the brake lever, push the master cylinder all the way in with a long screwdriver, then tighten the banjo bolt before releasing pressure on the screwdriver. Often times there is an air bubble left in the M/C that just refuses to leave unless the piston is forced along its entire travel. BassCliff's suggestion of tying the brake handle to the grip overnight is good for eliminating the last few tiny bubbles.


            .
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            Comment


              #7
              If all the above don't work try priming the M/C and using a vacuum pump to suck the fluid through from the wheel cylinder.

              Cheers

              Don

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