Carb tuning sequence, AGAIN

[renobruce]

The drill bit and sheet metal screw is for taking off the factory "caps" that may or may not be on your pilot air screws (the ones underneath). If the caps are already off, disregard those parts.

I think you will want to use the 138's in the kit.

[slamonte]

Thanks RenoBruce!

By the way, I love all the photos of your bike up on your site. You've done an excellent job of restoring your motorcycle.

Steve

[renobruce]

Thanks RenoBruce!

By the way, I love all the photos of your bike up on your site. You've done an excellent job of restoring your motorcycle.

Steve

Thanks, Steve! It was definitely a "group project" with all the help I received from this great site, just as you are now.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Slamonte, the drill bit is for removing any caps over the side air screws and/or pilot fuel screws.
Best starting (and hopefully final) jetting for your model/mods with the stage 3 DJ kit...
138 main, jet needle e-clip in the 4th position from the top AND be sure the two factory plastic spacers go back as per factory order...thicker on top the e-clip and thinner under the e-clip.
Be sure the carbs were bench synched well, floats were set to .94" and REMOVE those 2 floatbowl vent lines to avoid fuel starvation.
For the pilot circuit, the stock 15 pilot jet should work with only richer- than-factory adjustments made to the pilot fuel screws underneath. I'd initially set the pilot fuel screws to 1 1/2 turns out.
Initially set the side air screws to 1 3/4 turns out. These should then be fine tuned at the right time (see my earlier post) by the highest rpm method.
All other basic tuning must be done first before tuning the screws, or later, synching the carbs.
HIGHEST RPM METHOD...warm up bike fully, place on centerstand, set idle to the factory recommended 1,000 rpm, start at any carb, slowly turn a side air screw in either direction until you achieve maximum rpm, once max rpm is achieved return the base idle to 1,000 by using the idle adjuster knob, repeat to other 3 carbs.
You can now vacuum tool synch, after letting the bike cool a little (if you think it's hot). Always use two large fans when adjusting/synching.
After the synch, double check the air screw settings by doing the highest rpm method again. There may be little or no change but it only takes a couple minutes to know it's right.
Test performance and chop off/get plug reads at minimal throttle (pilot), 1/3 throttle (jet needle), and full throttle for the main circuit (main jet).
I test the pilot circuit at a steady cruise of about 35/40 in 4th/5th gear. I go a few miles at this throttle position. I do a couple of approx' 1 mile runs for the needles. Same for the mains. Please be careful when high speed testing.
Use freshly cleaned plugs as long as they're in good condition/correct heat range. A good gap is .027", which is right in the middle of factory recommended. You must be sure spark is good and blue. Clean connections, etc, are a must so you don't confuse jetting issues with a weak spark.
If you have any issues, let us know and we can help you with adjustments. The pilot fuel screws generally will need some fine tuning. Hopefully the jet needle will be set right because changing their position is by far the most work on your carbs, requiring throttle shaft, etc, removal, and new bench and vacuum tool synchs. The mains should be good based on past experience.
Be aware that some issues, such as excessive decel' popping, may be caused by header leaks due to poor fitting gaskets. Don't blame the jetting unless you KNOW the gaskets are sealing well. Some decel' pop is acceptable in my opinion. That's just part of increasing performance sometimes.
Any significant higher idling (once warmed up) issues means you have intake leak(s). As part of ANY carb work, the manifold o-rings should always be replaced and the manifiolds inspected too. I always remove those Phillips manifold screws and replace with Allens. Then you can torque the manifolds to approx' 6 ft/lb. I also apply a coat of high temp bearing grease to the new o-rings to help them last.
Good luck.