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    #1

    Oil everywhere

    Hi,

    I'm trying to get a 1980 GS1000G that I bought sight unseen running. I finally got it fired up today, and after a few minutes of idle, DOH!

    Oil started virtually pouring out of the top end of the engine. It looks like it's coming from the area of the gasket between the head and the block. I assume this means I will be doing a headgasket on this bike.

    I've never done a headgasket on a bike, I've done them on cars before though. I need to know about any special circumstances pertaining to this bike, I also need to know a list of parts I'll need and reputable suppliers for these parts.

    TIA!
    Tags: None
    #2
    The good news though is that the bike runs great for having sat for 2 years in a shed!

    Comment

      #3
      Re: Oil everywhere

      Originally posted by benbottles
      Hi,

      I'm trying to get a 1980 GS1000G that I bought sight unseen running. I finally got it fired up today, and after a few minutes of idle, DOH!

      Oil started virtually pouring out of the top end of the engine. It looks like it's coming from the area of the gasket between the head and the block. I assume this means I will be doing a headgasket on this bike.

      I've never done a headgasket on a bike, I've done them on cars before though. I need to know about any special circumstances pertaining to this bike, I also need to know a list of parts I'll need and reputable suppliers for these parts.

      TIA!
      Talk to Bill at Motorcycle Performance behind Midas on University Avenue.
      "When I give food to the poor, they call me a saint. When I ask why they are poor, they call me a communist." Bishop Helder Camara

      "Beware of the man with only one gun. He probably knows how to use it."

      http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...dStatesMap.jpg

      82 GS1100E....black w/WC fairing and plenty o corrosion and low levels of attention

      Comment

        #4
        I want to do the work myself.

        Motorcycle Performance wasn't too helpful, very brief on the phone. Wouldn't give me any "free advice" which is understandable but I need to know what supplies I'll need and they could give that to me considering I might have bought those supplies from them.

        Comment

          #5
          here is the list of parts needed:
          PN# 11173-49002 cam cover gasket
          PN# 09241-23002 plug cyl. end (need 4)
          PN# 11141-49002 head gasket
          PN# 11241-49000 base gasket
          PN# 09280-99003 O-ring
          PN# 09280-74002 O-ring (need 4)
          PN# 09280-21007 O-ring (need 2)

          I got those numbers from here, http://www.bikebandit.com/PartsBandit/
          I would recommend getting the manual, clymers ISBN # is 0-89287-305-1

          Comment

            #6
            Your almost certainly going to replace the gaskets, but if the leak is small and new, then it's just barely possible you can get away with re-torquing the head bolts.

            Try it....if it still leaks you have lost only a few minutes.
            Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'

            ​

            Comment

              #7
              Headgaskets 101

              Ben:
              Heres what you'll be doing
              First remove the gas-tank (keep track of where the rubber lines go to!),remove the carb air-box (this one is kinda tricky as there is little room to jockey it out). Next up are the carbs, observe how the cable assemblies work noting their routing. Both throttle and choke. Remove the exaust system (kinda heavy & akward may be of the built up ((several pieces)) type).
              The cam cover is next & carefully jockey it out. There is also little room to slid it out
              You will then need to dial up the cams to top dead center. You will need a manual for this as there is some variation from model to model.
              Once that is done you will have to remove the tensioner. (The funny looking spring device at the rear of the head)(refer to the manual here)
              The cam sprockets then need to be removed ,seperating the cams from the sprockets.
              Ty up the cam-chain making SURE it is still engaged onto the lower sprocket on the crank.
              Remove both cams putting them aside REMEMBERING which way they go back in (They are marked).
              Back out the cam caps a little at a time to even out the load, remember you are unloading the spring pressure of the valves.
              A criss cross pattern is employed here.
              After the cams are out and all the caps and cams are set aside IN ORDER, then you can attack the headbolts & nuts.
              I believe on this model it has a trick bolt that comes up from the bottom...rather small (10 mm?) that most miss still tying the head to the 'block'
              You WILL need a manual to do this job, it is just too involved to describe in more detail unless someone out here in GS-land has done your specific model a short time ago.
              Rick.......

              Comment

                #8
                thanks Richard,

                I got the Clymers manual and a gasket kit from Bandit and everything went fine.

                The only part of your procedure I would change is that you don't need to remove the cam sprockets from the cams. If you pull the cam chain tensioner first, that gives enough slack to get the rear (intake) cam out, then remove the chain guide block (on GS1000s, I believe other models have a different setup) from the top of the head and attach a coathanger to the cam chain, and the exhaust cam will also come out. A lot easier than trying to get the sprockets off with the cams still mounted in.

                Ben

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