Intake boot removel help

[salty_monk]

It shouldn't affect the seal as it will still pull the O ring tight. The O ring meets the circular face below the bolt so it is sealed before that point.

If you do hit that bit by accident & you are fussy rebuild with JB weld.

Dan

[Matchless]

The advice on drilling the bolt given by themes is exactly on target and is the only way you are going to get that out after seeing the picture.
Get a very small bit for your Dremel about 1mm and use it to drill a small hole as a pilot hole exactly in the center. Its easier to handle in the space. Dont go too deep. Now drill as themes explained.
If the bolt is well and truely stuck and does not loosen during the drilling process, you need to carefully drill a wider hole up to the maximum that will nearly touch the thread in the manifold, that is why an exact center start is so important. You want to have the thinnest possible metal of the stuck bolt left in the tread without actually damaging the tread. If nothing budges yet, the next step is to buy a set of left hand bolt removers. They are tapered and as you turn them tighter, in the anticlockwise direction, they grip the left over bolt tighter and should get it out. Use the heaviest one in the set that will fit and do not snap it off.
If you happen to mess up the thread, it is possible to do your own repair. Get a drill and tap and die that is bigger than the present hole, then drill and tap the hole, cut thread on a piece of aluminium rod. Screw it in and set with threadlock, cut it off level with the face, drill with smaller bit and tap back original tread into the insert.
Good luck!

[hampshirehog]

Another trick that might work is to drill in about 5mm deep with a bit about 3mm thinner than the diameter then using a flat head impact bit the width of the hole (or a tad under) give it a whack. A bit of heat often works wonders too.

Personally I loathe using a bolt remover or eazi-out. If it snaps you're in trouble as they are harder than a drill bit (but I'm just cack handed).

Wally

[tomcat24551]

I have heard professional mechanics say they used left-rotation drill bits for the drilling operation. They say that with the bits turning counter-clockwise, the cutting pressure/friction will often start the screw to back out before the drilling is even completed. The drill has acted as, sort of, an "easy-out" in this case.

Might be worth a try if you can find the drills.

Tomcat