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While taking the pipes off one bolt hear broke off. its sticking 3/8 out. heres a pick. its the rust looking thing with the clean head to ther right of the paper towel. any suggestions. Please help.
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Blast the crap out of it with some PB and let it soak..even turn it back in a half turn to get the flow down in there...then blast it some more and grab some vice grips...3/8 should be enought to grab hold clamp em down tight and turn out then back then out untill it comes out. Just a suggestion,, others might have better ones just be glad its not broken flush..Originally posted by dude608 View Post -
Alright whats PB? First thing i did was have a sigh of relief when I saw plenty was sticking out.Originally posted by TheCafeKid View PostComment
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PB Blaster. http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-Penetr.../dp/B0002JM8GS Let it soak for a day or so. Heat on the bolt might help as well.
Good luck.Ed
To measure is to know.
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PB Blaster..you can get it at ANY autoparts store and it whoops the llamas arse as far as rustremover, bolt extraction etc etc...i swear by it..havent found anything that works as good. Excellent penetration and it does lots of stuff besides that too..good for cleaing tools, etc etc. Get a can of that, it will never do you wrong...hose that screw down real good let it sit for a while and try a crack at em with the vice grips...if its not coming, use some more PB and let her sit somemore...but she should be good to go.Comment
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I have just used a "freeze spray" to do exactly this.Originally posted by dude608 View Post
Easy as 1,2,3
1 hit it with the spray.
2 light tap with a hammer on the stud.
3 vise grips.
Worked mint.
Good luckComment
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Soak it with the PB Blaster to start with, the longer the better. Grab it with the vise grips like everyone else says, but... do yourself a favor, don't just twist it till the rest of the stud breaks off, but go at it kinda easy. Give the stud a chance to move. IF it moved a tiny bit before it broke to begin with, turn it back in a tad before trying to get it to come out, use more spray if it does move. Every millimeter that it moves in either direction allows the penetrating spray to get further in. Twist it both ways if it'll go. Putting a little extra rotation towards removal each time. Heat does help if it won't come out on its own. Heat the area around the stud to allow for a slight bit of expansion. Even the tiniest amount of loosening in the case might allow the stud to begin turning.Comment
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I've found that there's about a 50% chance that the above approach will work. When it doesn't, you've got to go the drill/tap/heli-coil route - see the MANY posts on this topic.Comment
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I would agree with the penetrating fluid/heat and vice-grip approach but also as mentioned, go slow. I find a lot of guys slap on the juice, give it 5 minutes and reef away. I used to be one of them, but the juice needs time to work.
In addition, when you grab with the 'grips get close to the head rather than at the end of the stud. Being at the end you have more likelyhood of torquing off what is left of it.
Another thing that can help after a judicious application of fluid and heat is a sharp tap on the end of the stud, before and after turning. this can help break the "seal'.
Before drilling tapping and helicoil, if it absolutely won't budge, you can weld on a washer and nut and go at it with a socket and "breaker" bar. Again gently as you can shatter the stud with too much force.
Lots of juice and some heat...time to penetrate and work and you should be ok.
Cheers,
Spyug.Comment
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