How do you go about starting GS550e when stood for 7 years

[barrykatona]

Hi guys just bought this fella on Ebay tonight and am picking it up tomorrow. I intend to use it as a donor bike for my Katana rebuild project. But I would like to get it running before I start ripping it to pieces.The bike was running when stored but has been stood in a garage for 7 years.So here is what I need advice on what precautions are required before i stick a new battery on and try to start her. All advice welcome.Hope you like the pic.

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee205/barrykatona/gs550e1.jpg

Please form an orderly queue if you are wishing to purchase the fairing.
Or maybe I will paint it silver and orange and stick it on the Katana\\/

 

[Nessism]

Only precautions are to change the oil and check the air filter (the foam likes to crumble). Most likely it won't start, or if it does, it won't run well until you go through the carbs and replace the O-rings and intake boot O-rings as well. Good luck.

 

[BassCliff]

Mr. barrykatona,

Perhaps squirt a little WD40 or something in the cylinders and let it sit for a while, just to ensure against stuck piston rings.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[spyug]

You don't want to try and crank it until you know the pistons are not seized. As BassC says you should squirt liberally with WD40 or your penetrating fluid of choice. Let it sit for a day.

Remove the stator cover (left side) and (with tranny in neutral...obviously and plugs out) select a socket of the appropriate size and turn the crank. There should be little resistance and you should be able to turn easily. If any resistance is felt STOP and squirt in more release fluid and let it sit a bit longer. Repeat if necessary but don't force things.

Before putting in the battery and cranking away clean the battery leads, pull and check the fuses check wires for splits or cracked insulation and corrosion at any of the connectors.

Put in some new plugs. Cheap insurance for good spark.

It is likely that the carbs are gummed up so it is doubtful that you'll get things to fire and run right from the get go. It would be best to pull them and clean them as best you can. See the tutorial on the main page.

When you try and fire it up if it seems like you have little or no spark or if it cranks slowly it is likely a bad gound. Clean the neg. lead at both ends ensuring that you have a good metal to metal contact.

I know the urge to get her running quickly is overwhelming but take it slow.Chances are good that the engine is not seized but after that length of time it very well could be so don't risk busting a piston ring or two by cranking away.

Good luck on the project and let us know when you get her running.

Cheers,
Spyug.

 

[barrykatona]

I have squirted wd40 into the bores so will let this do its work for a while.I also bought some carb cleaner spray today on my way home from work, anybody know the best way to use this with the carbs still on the bike?

Thanks all

 

[Nessism]

I also bought some carb cleaner spray today on my way home from work, anybody know the best way to use this with the carbs still on the bike?

Thanks all

Spraying the carbs while they are still on the bike will do no good. The jets that typically get plugged up are all located on the bottom (under the float bowl) and there is no way to clean these without taking the carbs off the bike.

 

[spyug]

If you haven't pulled and cleaned carbs before it can appear daunting but it really isn't a big deal.

The carb tutorial is awesome and should be your guide. The only change I would make to it at this point is don't dissamble the carbs as you only want to clean them to see if they will work. A full cleaning and rebuild can come later maybe over winter.

It can be difficult to get the carbs off as there is not a lot of manouvering room but essentially take off tank, remove and or push back the airbox. You might need to pull out the battery and battery cradle to do this. Disconnect throttle cable and choke cable from linkage. It is hard to describe how this is done so refer to you manual. Unloosen each of the carb manifold clamps. Now, while pulling back toward the airbox, wiggle carbs up and down and they will pop free. Guide the carbs out to the left side of the bike. Some swearing will be involved and it definitely helps to hold your tongue in the right position :-D

With the carbs out, hose down the outside liberally with carb cleaner, WD40 or penetrating fluid to get off all crud. A good bristle brush helps and put paper towel in the carb throats to keep junk out.

Put the carbs on the bench and do one at a time. Use a small dish or egg carton to place parts as they come out.

Start with the float bowl. Remove the screws and gently pry off the bowl. If you do it right the gasket will come too and will be reuseable if not torn.

Referring the tutorial identify all the jets and passages. Spray some carb cleaner into a dish or the plastic cap, remove all jets and drop them in for a soak. Spray all holes and passages with the cleaner and poke through everything with copper or bronze wire. Try to not enlarge any holes in the jets. Clean out any and all grunge you find, blow out everything with compressed air and reassemble.

A few cautions:
1) do not immerse any rubber orings you find in the cleaner as they may dissintegrate.
2) careful removing the float bowl pin. It may be a tight fit. Gentle pressure with a small jewelers screw driver or rod of a similar diameter will drive it out. Too much force and you will snap a post and bugger the carb.
3) when the float comes free be careful not to lose the steel float valve that sits under it. Very easy to do
4) when you get to the top of the carb be careful there is a spring under the cap that might pop free and take care with the rubber slide diaphram which is quite delicate.don't puncture or rip it.

Hopefully the carbs won't be too dirty but don't be too surprised what you find in there.


If you take your time and do it in steps and follow the tutorial you will be fine. After doing it once you will be quicker at it the next time and you can do a full teardown and rebuild.

Good luck and let us know when you get her to fire.

Cheers,
Spyug.

 

[Steve]

... anybody know the best way to use this with the carbs still on the bike?

The best way to do it with the carbs still on the bike is ...NOT. :shock:

As mentioned by Nessism and detailed by Spyug, you will have to remove the carbs from the bike.

Spyug gave a good procedure, the only thing I would add is to wear safety glasses when spraying cleaner through the carb passages. Some of them make u-turns in the carb bodies, and will spray right back at you. :shock:

Ultimately, you will want to dip the carbs and replace all the o-rings. A can of Berryman's carb cleaner (one gallon size) will let you dip one carb at a time, with all the brass jets, but no non-metallic parts. The directions on the can say to immerse for 15-30 minutes, but in the case of long neglect, like your bike has experienced, I would suggest 15-30 hours, instead, for each carb. Considering that this will take a few days, it is a good time to order your o-rings for the carbs and intake boots from www.cycleorings.com. Good quality parts, fast service, inexpensive, and run by a member of this forum. \\/


.

 

[barrykatona]

Well Wd40 down the barrels has done the trick I left it in over night and turned the motor over with a spanner on the nut under the ignition cover and all seems well.

I then sprayed all the electrical connections I could find with elec cleaner spray and tested the fuses all tested ok.

i am dropping the old oil out of it at the moment.

This bike is a 1983 gs550 and when i bought the oil for it yesterday i checked my manual (which only goes up to 1982) and it said the oil was 20w 50 which I bought. But on the oil filler cap of the bike it specifies 10w 40 oil. Anybody know if this is correct and should I exchange the 20w 50 or will it be ok to use?

Also how many wires should connect to the battery?

I have one red (+ I presume) and 3 other wires with battey connectors on them, all black or black/white(- I presume) they also seem to be routed to the negative side of the battery box. Does this sound about right?

For my next trick I will attempt to turn two bikes into one Da Daaa

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee205/barrykatona/bb003.jpg

 

[Nessism]

10w-40 is the standard oil. 20W-50 can be used in hot weather.

 

[excesses]

Carb kits?

Carb kits?

I recently acquired a FREE 1979 GS400 (E?). The carbs were off it, and I'd like to rebuild them. Manual says that stock they are mikuni BS34s - they look stock. Anyone have an idea where I can get a carb kit(s)?

Also - is the 79 model the first one with 4 valves per cyl?

Thanks

DJ

 

[Nessism]

The 4 valve per cylinder engines have rectrangular chrome caps on the valve cover, the others are round.

Not sure about the carb kits other than to say you most likely don't need a complete kit. You might want to call Z1 Enterprise (they don't list anything on their website). Several models of Japanese bikes came with BS34 carbs so you should be able to get gaskets and seals but maybe not jets which you should not need anyway. And don't forget to replace the carb boot o-rings since they are sure to leak unless they have been replaced before.

 

[excesses]

Thanks for that info!! Can you tell me how to use the serial number(s) to determine correct year/model? (if at all possible)

Many thanks again!

DJ