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Banjo Bolts

  • Thread starter Thread starter lhanscom
  • Start date Start date
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lhanscom

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What size bolt do I need to replace the banjo bolt in my anti dive setup? I need diameter, length, and thread type. This is for removing the line and capping off the anti dive thing. Thanks
 
Re: Banjo Bolts

lhanscom said:
What size bolt do I need to replace the banjo bolt in my anti dive setup? I need diameter, length, and thread type. This is for removing the line and capping off the anti dive thing. Thanks
I just went to the hardware store with the short bolt and matched it up. Biker 66 said that he just left the front bolt out and it works fine((I believe i read that)) He may have stuffed ther hole with dried FISKBULLAR though.
 
Brake banjo bolts are 10mm, fine thread 1.0 or 1.25 pitch I believe. Why are you removing the Anti-Dive units?

8) Andre 8)
 
I want to see how things are effected. I read the article in the 'garage' section, and wanted to see what the breaking was like with the anti-dive off. Also to how much diving the fork does without it. I did this last night, but it's snowing today and tomorrow, so I may try it on Sunday. Thanks for the help!
 
lhanscom said:
I want to see how things are effected. I read the article in the 'garage' section, and wanted to see what the breaking was like with the anti-dive off. Also to how much diving the fork does without it. I did this last night, but it's snowing today and tomorrow, so I may try it on Sunday. Thanks for the help!
I have special springs in my tubes si I dont notice any diference. I just wante to get all that spagetti off thr bike
if i had the tools i would make a replacement plate and get that godzilla looking unit off all together.
 
Good Idea, I think I have some aluminum plate I could make a nice little plate with. I'll do that if I like the performace without it. It looks kinda dumb or at least useless without a hose going to it.
 
I haven't heard anyone else comment on this, my bike(82 1100E)came with a broken anti-dive valve and no oil in that tube, I rebuilt both tubes and blanked off the holes where the anti-dives had been. One day I was wailing down a dirt road and hit a good size hole, it blew one of the seals inside out! After disassembly I realized that the anti-dive valving is also the send/return path for the fork oil when brakes are not engaged, by omitting them entirely, the oil is forced through the fluid cup(inside fork leg under spring, looks like a thimble) return oil passages on the downstroke as well as upstroke, these are too small and overpressured the seals. I removed cups, figured the area equivalent of the anti-dive passages, divided the area needed by 2 and drilled 2 holes, each 1/2 the total required area, in the fluid cup to provide for proper, full and timely downstroke.Been working great the past 10 yrs. since. Hope that makes sense to someone!
 
Is this only an issue when you remove the anti dive unit? Where are the holes you drilled? Do you have a picture or what you did?
 
lhanscom said:
Is this only an issue when you remove the anti dive unit? Where are the holes you drilled? Do you have a picture or what you did?

Yes, it's only an issue if you completely remove them and then blank plate over the holes.The reason being that there is a relief valve in the anti-dive unit that is no longer there when anti-dive is removed. The holes drilled are in the fluid return cup, inside the bottom of each fork leg(complete disassembly required) This was 10 yrs ago, before I thought anyone else would even care about an old bike,no pics but the circled area is the cup
site1053.jpg

site1054.jpg
 
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