new fork seals leaking

[Anonymous]

thanks guys

my tubes are great , not pitted. the seals are in the right way etc. i suspect i may have blown them with too much air......$@$@% oh well, live and learn. and simon, your procedure was great...not blaming you on anything.....thanks for the help everyone on this site.
katt

[Billy Ricks]

katt,
10psi shouldn't have hurt anything. If PJ-1 still has the formula with seal-swell give it a shot. Between it and just giving the seals a chance to work themselves in the seepage may stop on its own.

[Anonymous]

Shouldn't be affected by air pressure. Maybe they are upside down like someone else said, or a slight nick on the sealing lip. Or maybe the wrong seal was sold to you and no one noticed. :?

[Anonymous]

I need to replace the front fork seals on my 1980 GS850GT also.

So Simon, would you mind sending me your guide as well - or anyone else that has it.

I don't understand the springs instead of air pressure, so if you could explain that to me as well I'd appreciate it.

Thanks.

--Dwight

[Anonymous]

I need to replace the front fork seals on my 1980 GS850GT also.
So Simon, would you mind sending me your guide as well - or anyone else that has it.
I don't understand the springs instead of air pressure, so if you could explain that to me as well I'd appreciate it.
Thanks.
--Dwight

Dwight, I will e-mail you the guide today. You should really have a manual for your bike as well, though. The pictures in the manual really help you understand the disassembly and reassembly of the forks. Unless you hit an unpredicted problem (like I did with a seized bolt) the whole procedure isn't that difficult with pictures as a guide. The main thing is to allow yourself enough time to work unhurredly and methodically. Also, time should be taken to inspect the chromed sliders for defects and remedy them, if necessary.

As for springs vs. air pressure: I think of the air pressure as acting as an adjustable spring. If the actual springs are suited for the bike and rider, you really shouldn't need it. On my 83 GS750ES, the OE springs are dual rate (i.e. although the spring is a single continuous metal spiral, the pitch has a different "wind rate" for the lower and upper parts). The OE "soft" rate is too soft leading to excessive initial dive on braking. The temptation then is to increase the air pressure to "stiffen" the front end. The Progressive Suspension springs I installed are also dual rate but have a higher rate than standard for the "soft" part of the spring. I have found that with these springs, and 15W fork oil (thicker than the 10W standard), I no longer need to resort to using air pressure. This is all a matter of taste but for my type of riding I find my "upgraded" setup a distinct improvement over stock in terms of corner entry stability and predictability.

BTW, a number of people on this site gave me very useful advice on fork seal installation, for which I am still very grateful. Billy Ricks also gave me the benefit of his experience on changing the springs, fabricating spacers, etc.....life is so much easier when others have gone before and pass on the lessons learned.

[Anonymous]

Simon,
Thanks for the help!

I'm going to get on it - BTW - be watching for a Colorado ride soon.

--Dwight

[AirCooledFour]

My fork seals are tight!

I purchased a "Leak Proof" brand lifetime seals from ebay for my '76 GS750. When I try and put the snap ring on above the washer and seal there doesn't seem to be any room for the ring to make the groove. Unless I force it down, which I dont want to do right now. Any suggestions?

[almarconi]

This thread is six years old..you may want to try starting a new thread.

[reddirtrider]

I purchased a "Leak Proof" brand lifetime seals from ebay for my '76 GS750. When I try and put the snap ring on above the washer and seal there doesn't seem to be any room for the ring to make the groove. Unless I force it down, which I dont want to do right now. Any suggestions?

How did you install the seals? Did you drive them in with the proper tool?

[AirCooledFour]

Fork Seals

No, they just about dropped right in. easily. When I slide in the tubes they snug up alot and fit tightly. Is it when I have the tubes in I drive them down? I think I only need about a 1/16" so I can install the clips over the washer.

How did you install the seals? Did you drive them in with the proper tool?

[hampshirehog]

You need to remove the fork tubes and tap the seals down until they seat (you did put the cup washers below the seals in the right way up - if your bike is fitted with them?)

Don't bash on the seals with a mallet (or you'll booger the seals) - use the old seals as a cushion between the mallet and the seals and gently tap. Cheaper than buying the proper tool.