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As I have searched, I have had some mixed results on Syn oil, but that's not what I want to get into to.
This is my experience... I bought the bike with 17,600 on her and the clutch did not slip, BUT it did seem to catch early with a really long friction zone... i.e. I let the clutch out about 1'' and the engine would start to bog a tad and the bike would move but I could freely rev the bike. I would not be fully engauged until almost the last part of the clutch throw was fully released.
I figured grooves in the basket maybe giving me a bit of fuss.
I read that it may be the spring plate under the paino wire in the drum could be the culprit.
I decided to switch to Rotella 5 40 in the blue jug. Clutch operation seemed better after a few rides, wasn't grabbing as early and engauged smoother. Well a few weeks ago she decided to slip on a second gear blast and I thought well maybe in the excitement I rode the clutch. So I made sure to be completely off of the clutch and went WOT only to find more slip so I let off right away. I went home and checked the free play in the lever, cable operates very smooth, so I figured chaulk it up to running syn in an old clutch and/or weak springs. But wait, there is a rattle as well.
Findings
Hub nut was a tad loose, but when I bent the safety washer straight I could no longer turn the hub nut? Was I imagining that I could turn the hub nut because I sure as heck couldn't get it to move after straightening the washer and had to get a big wrench out of the tool box.
Measurements
Sping free height 38.85mm across the board
These will be replaced with Suzuki OEM springs, bolts, inner spring guides
I measured an average of 1.97mm on the steels... aren't blue, warped and look brand new with the perforated holes in them
drive plate (frictions)
I measure 2.97-2.95mm on them as well.
I have no intentions of replacing the steels, figured a good cleaning and scuffing would bring them to reusable condition
The drum does have the three big springs a tad loose in the back. I am sure some will say that I could get away with it and some would say to send it of to one of the two reputable guys and another would say order Suzi OEM which is what I plan to do. The drum has ever-so-slight markes in the splines that you can barely feel with your finger but they are there. I understand that Suzi has supposedly made an update to their drums according to Falicon (read from a post on here)
I have also read that Suzi has revised frictions and APE still has the old style although it was a bit nebulous as to which style is the better style.
Some would say that because the hub nut was loose to get a hub... I am still wondering if I was imagining that darn thing being loose or if it was the washer that moved, but here is another debated topic.
Suzi oem nut, used by many for many years, replace it as you take it off along with the washer VS. datada DAAAA APE's manly hub nut in which you could take out Superman with it and then reinstall it back on the ol GS.
I definitely can NOT say that money is no objection...wish it was. More like biting the bullet.
I was thinking new frictions 12.78 each x 9 for a 115.02 total
For all new springs, bolts, washers and spacer 6.4 x 6 for another 38.40
Which would be order number one to qualify me for free shipping.
Next month grab the :edited: (I meant to say basket) for 174.33
Nut and washer ___ to go APE or not
And a clutch release bearing... But wait there's more
Bike needs tires... expensive
Fork seals cheap
Gotta check the shims hopefully won't need too many
Borrowed time components
Stator
regulator
coils
____________
not cheap ^^^^
Any thoughts or opions are welcome.
I did think about just replacing the clutch springs for now and order up new parts for it over the summer and do the rest next winter, but if she still slips, I suppose I could go to non energy label castrol GTX 10-40 as my dad has never had any problems with his bike and that's all his bike has ever used. I'm just the person that knows either you pay now or pay later.
This is my experience... I bought the bike with 17,600 on her and the clutch did not slip, BUT it did seem to catch early with a really long friction zone... i.e. I let the clutch out about 1'' and the engine would start to bog a tad and the bike would move but I could freely rev the bike. I would not be fully engauged until almost the last part of the clutch throw was fully released.
I figured grooves in the basket maybe giving me a bit of fuss.
I read that it may be the spring plate under the paino wire in the drum could be the culprit.
I decided to switch to Rotella 5 40 in the blue jug. Clutch operation seemed better after a few rides, wasn't grabbing as early and engauged smoother. Well a few weeks ago she decided to slip on a second gear blast and I thought well maybe in the excitement I rode the clutch. So I made sure to be completely off of the clutch and went WOT only to find more slip so I let off right away. I went home and checked the free play in the lever, cable operates very smooth, so I figured chaulk it up to running syn in an old clutch and/or weak springs. But wait, there is a rattle as well.
Findings
Hub nut was a tad loose, but when I bent the safety washer straight I could no longer turn the hub nut? Was I imagining that I could turn the hub nut because I sure as heck couldn't get it to move after straightening the washer and had to get a big wrench out of the tool box.
Measurements
Sping free height 38.85mm across the board
These will be replaced with Suzuki OEM springs, bolts, inner spring guides
I measured an average of 1.97mm on the steels... aren't blue, warped and look brand new with the perforated holes in them
drive plate (frictions)
I measure 2.97-2.95mm on them as well.
I have no intentions of replacing the steels, figured a good cleaning and scuffing would bring them to reusable condition
The drum does have the three big springs a tad loose in the back. I am sure some will say that I could get away with it and some would say to send it of to one of the two reputable guys and another would say order Suzi OEM which is what I plan to do. The drum has ever-so-slight markes in the splines that you can barely feel with your finger but they are there. I understand that Suzi has supposedly made an update to their drums according to Falicon (read from a post on here)
I have also read that Suzi has revised frictions and APE still has the old style although it was a bit nebulous as to which style is the better style.
Some would say that because the hub nut was loose to get a hub... I am still wondering if I was imagining that darn thing being loose or if it was the washer that moved, but here is another debated topic.
Suzi oem nut, used by many for many years, replace it as you take it off along with the washer VS. datada DAAAA APE's manly hub nut in which you could take out Superman with it and then reinstall it back on the ol GS.
I definitely can NOT say that money is no objection...wish it was. More like biting the bullet.
I was thinking new frictions 12.78 each x 9 for a 115.02 total
For all new springs, bolts, washers and spacer 6.4 x 6 for another 38.40
Which would be order number one to qualify me for free shipping.
Next month grab the :edited: (I meant to say basket) for 174.33
Nut and washer ___ to go APE or not
And a clutch release bearing... But wait there's more
Bike needs tires... expensive
Fork seals cheap
Gotta check the shims hopefully won't need too many
Borrowed time components
Stator
regulator
coils
____________
not cheap ^^^^
Any thoughts or opions are welcome.
I did think about just replacing the clutch springs for now and order up new parts for it over the summer and do the rest next winter, but if she still slips, I suppose I could go to non energy label castrol GTX 10-40 as my dad has never had any problems with his bike and that's all his bike has ever used. I'm just the person that knows either you pay now or pay later.
/ 
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