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Installing new front sprocket....need advice
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Chuckster
Originally posted by tone View Post
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tone
Originally posted by kingofvenus View PostMine won't come off no matter what I've tried, I'm going to split the cases this winter to get the d@mn thing off.
Stick it in gear with a mate standing on the back brake, apply gentle heat to the nut but not the shaft & give what for with a rattle gun works every time for me :-D
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If you haven't got a rattle gun fit a ring spanner and give it a sharp tap with a mallet (yeah, I know you shouldn't hit a spanner but it works).
Another trick to hold the shaft is to wrap an old cotton towel or similar around the front sprocket and wind it round until it fills up the available space and jams. This one works if you haven't got a chain fitted so you can do it with the engine off the bike. Be prepared to cut the towel off in strips afterwards with a knife. (Trick also works on clutch baskets etc)
And note Tone says gentle heat - don't over do it as you can knacker the oil seal.
Wally79 GS1000S
79 GS1000S (another one)
80 GSX750
80 GS550
80 CB650 cafe racer
75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father
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Ironriot
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If you didn't strip the nut get an impact with a 32mm socket and give it a try. I think this is what Tone said but I don't know what a rattle gun is.:-D
Let it soak in PB blaster first for a couple of days.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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tone
Sorry chief
rattle gun is uk slang for a nut runner or impact gun as used by your local tyre fitters when taking off your car wheels :-D
Most are air powered but electric ones are available & are great for removing stuborn nuts & bolts, i wouldn't use one for doing up anything bike related though as they are a bit agressive :shock:
hope thats sorted that one :-D
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JPS
Washers
This reply may be to late to help but for others that may read these replies its good to get different views. The new washer shown in the photo has been put on correctly. It has been designed with a bent flange around the circumference so that when you tighten the nut against it the washer is flattened. The washer however wants to go back to its original shape thus pushing against the nut, thus stopping the nut from turning loose. Much like a spring washer. You could turn it the other way and try to bend it but that is not how this washer was designed in the first place, it would also be hard to bend because of the formed flange making the washer very stiff.
The nut has a recess so it can push up against the washer and sprocket without fouling / hitting the spline. If the nut ends up hiting the spline it cannot tighten anymore.
The old washers shown on the photos are flat and are meant to be bent over one or two faces of the nut to stop the nut from turning loose.
My personal preference are the flat washers you bend over. You can also use tread locking compounds such as Loctite Blue or Red.
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