Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

82 GS1100EZ Charging at 15.63 Volts

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    82 GS1100EZ Charging at 15.63 Volts

    After replacing the Stator and R/R the bike runs and charges. The charging voltage I fear will cook my battery.
    The battery is new and has been on a maintenance charger and consistently reads 12.63 volts. It spins the starter well and the system charges at 13.34 at warmup idle of around 3200 rpms. At 4500 rpms, it charges at 15.63 volts. I have used two different volt ohmmeters and they read the same. I rode the bike to town yesterday to have it inspected and it ran fine. Upon returning from the 20 mile round trip I felt for warm wires and found none. :-D (It was in the 70's here yesterday.) I have never had a vehicle with this kind oa charging voltage. Am I in danger of cooking the battery or melting insulation on wires etc? I like long rides and camping and I really don't think I can trust this situation in the summer heat. What do you think?
    The Stator is from Electrosport and the R/R is one of those really cool Honda rebuilds from Duaneage.
    Thanks,
    Lee

    #2
    Check the voltage on the R/R's sense wire. If its below battery voltage it will cause the R/R to try and make up the difference overcharging your battery.

    Comment


      #3
      In my opinion...No. My bike charges slightly higher than the suggested 14.4V @ 4000+- and I've not experienced any problems with the battery cooking and have logged more than 2,000 miles this way. I think that mine is in the range of 15.4 and again, no problems. :?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Jaguarjoe View Post
        Check the voltage on the R/R's sense wire. If its below battery voltage it will cause the R/R to try and make up the difference overcharging your battery.
        What he said and make sure all of your conections are sound as well (poor sense wire connection could reduce sensed voltage)
        Cheers

        Comment


          #5
          Hi v

          Thanks for those quick replies. I will check the voltage of the sense wire. It is a splice into the rear brake + feed. All of those new connectors were soldered before they were installed and dielectric grease was lightly applied. This GS is a completely new experience for me and I LOVE the beast! \\/
          Lee

          Comment


            #6
            A charging current of 15.4 is going to cause the battery to boil, shorten bulb life (headlight and tail) and will absolutely cause the death of an electronic ignition system.

            Earl


            Originally posted by Dave8338 View Post
            In my opinion...No. My bike charges slightly higher than the suggested 14.4V @ 4000+- and I've not experienced any problems with the battery cooking and have logged more than 2,000 miles this way. I think that mine is in the range of 15.4 and again, no problems. :?
            Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

            I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

            Comment


              #7
              When you measure the voltage that the R/R is sencing (or measuring any voltage actaully) you must be be carfull to not only where you have the positive meter lead, but also where you place the negitive meter lead. In this case you want to measure what the R/R is sencing so put the positive lead where the R/R sence lead is AND put the negitive meter lead where the R/R negitive is. ANd by that I mean not just a ANY ground point, but where the R/R is connected to the ground. Better yet, put the negitive lead on the R/R case.

              I say this because one reason for too high a charging voltage is that the R/R is not well grounded. If the R/R isnt well grounded, but you put the meter negitive lead to something that is well grounded, well, then your meter reading is not what the R/R is seeing.

              If you dont want to understand all that.... just do this first.
              With engine running: Measure voltage between the R/R case and frame ground, should be about zero (or just a small fraction of a volt). Measure voltage between R/R case and battery negitive, should be about zero also. BOth should about zero volts, because R/R should be well grounded, so those 3 things should all be connected together so all at same voltage. If R/R is not well groaunded, then the R/R will overcharge for two reasons.
              .
              Last edited by Redman; 12-13-2007, 10:19 PM.
              http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
              Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
              GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl


              https://imgur.com/YTMtgq4

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Redman View Post
                When you measure the voltage that the R/R is sencing (or measuring any voltage actaully) you must be be carfull to not only where you have the positive meter lead, but also where you place the negitive meter lead. In this case you want to measure what the R/R is sencing so put the positive lead where the R/R sence lead is AND put the negitive meter lead where the R/R negitive is. ANd by that I mean not just a ANY ground point, but where the R/R is connected to the ground. Better yet, put the negitive lead on the R/R case.

                I say this because one reason for too high a charging voltage is that the R/R is not well grounded. If the R/R isnt well grounded, but you put the meter negitive lead to something that is well grounded, well, then your meter reading is not what the R/R is seeing.

                If you dont want to understand all that.... just do this first.
                With engine running: Measure voltage between the R/R case and frame ground, should be about zero (or just a small fraction of a volt). Measure voltage between R/R case and battery negitive, should be about zero also. BOth should about zero volts, because R/R should be well grounded, so those 3 things should all be connected together so all at same voltage. If R/R is not well groaunded, then the R/R will overcharge for two reasons.
                .
                Excellent post. I learned something that actually makes sense to my subpar electrical knowledge.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #9
                  HiV

                  Thanks for those posts. The negative lead of the R/R connects the the negative battery terminal. The Positive lead is fused and connected to the Positive Battery terminal. I will compare the R/R case to the Ground and the sense wire voltage to the battery voltage.
                  I must tell you guys that this sharing of information and real concern is just too cool. :-D Please hang with me until this gets resolved.
                  Thanks,
                  Lee

                  Comment


                    #10
                    What you find Muser?

                    Usally the R/R negitive is "grounded", but usally "grounded" to battery box, but then sometimes the battery box isnt very well grounded so therefor the R/R isnt well grounded. That is why you will hear recommendations to run wire directly from R/R negitive to battery negitive, and apparently someone has done that.
                    But still measure from R/R sence (where ever that is) to R/R negitive (where ever that is). Should be same as you read of battery positive to battery negitive. If its not, then the R/R aint measuring what it is suppose to be controlling, so how can it controll what it isnt measuring (dont mean to get phylosophicall har har har).

                    Get that thing running. Then look in Meeting Place forumn for the Texas Hill Country ride (in spring and fall).

                    .
                    Last edited by Redman; 12-14-2007, 06:13 PM. Reason: yammer yammer
                    http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
                    Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
                    GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl


                    https://imgur.com/YTMtgq4

                    Comment


                      #11
                      HiV

                      I think I 'm screwed!!
                      I ran a ground wire to the case from the neg. batt. terminal. No difference. Then my brake bulb burned out. Then after I replaced it with a 1157 which is all I have today, the charging voltage dropped from 16 to just under 13 volts. That is too low.
                      I've been playing with this all day off and on and the sense voltage is still 1 to 1.3 volts below the battery voltage while running.
                      I ride the hill country often. My sons and I did a week in May from the Dallas area to the Big Bend to Del Rio and Mexico and back up through the Hill Country. Took 7 days of riding and camping out. Total blast!!
                      I thought I posted this an hour or so ago, but it's not here. Probably on some other thread. Or maybe i just deleted it or whatever. I'm not too swift on these new-fangled gadgets.
                      Maybe you can give me an idea or two.
                      Thanks,
                      Lee

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Its possible the bulb was shorting and causing the high charge rate.
                        For what its worth, I had installed for the last three years I owned it, a voltage meter on my 1150 dash. When the battery was in a fully charged state, the normal voltage reading in the electrical system was 13.1 to 13.2 volts when I was cruising down the highway at 65 mph. If your charging system was overcharging, I think it likely your battery is fully charged and consequently the charge rate will/should be at its lowest. You didnt say what rpm you are getting 13 volts at. Its a little low for a cruising rpm of 4k, but its plenty high if you checked at idle rpm or slightly above. I would check battery voltage with the bike not running and everything off. If the battery is fully charged, it should show somewhere between 12.7 and 13 depending on age/condition of the battery. If the battery is fully charged, a charge rate of near 13v or so is normal. If the battery is discharged (hovering around 12v) then a charging rate of 13 is marginal.

                        Earl


                        Originally posted by Muser3 View Post
                        I think I 'm screwed!!
                        I ran a ground wire to the case from the neg. batt. terminal. No difference. Then my brake bulb burned out. Then after I replaced it with a 1157 which is all I have today, the charging voltage dropped from 16 to just under 13 volts. That is too low.
                        I've been playing with this all day off and on and the sense voltage is still 1 to 1.3 volts below the battery voltage while running.
                        I ride the hill country often. My sons and I did a week in May from the Dallas area to the Big Bend to Del Rio and Mexico and back up through the Hill Country. Took 7 days of riding and camping out. Total blast!!
                        I thought I posted this an hour or so ago, but it's not here. Probably on some other thread. Or maybe i just deleted it or whatever. I'm not too swift on these new-fangled gadgets.
                        Maybe you can give me an idea or two.
                        Thanks,
                        Lee
                        Last edited by earlfor; 12-14-2007, 09:02 PM.
                        Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                        I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          My battery reads 12.8 not running and 13 and rising at 3000 RPMs. What does the battery read without running? This will affect the charging at idle. Mine actually drops a little. But at 4000 RPMs I'm at 14.9 but never over 15.

                          My batterys a couple of years old and was ran with a bad R/R for most of the that time. I too have a Honda R/R.
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Hi V

                            Thanks, That's good info for me. The voltage of the battery is 12.63. If I keep connected to a maintenance charger it will hover around 12.9. So therefore if I do not need a lot of charge, 12.9 or 13 is good, right? So if I leave the key on for a while and deplete the battery down to ll.5 volts or so the charge rate should rise to over 13.5 or so? Might be something to try .
                            About the bulb-- could it be shorting and still be working properly? I just took the bike into town and had the mandatory safety inspection done and the tail and brake light were working then. I'm still puzzled, but then I've been puzzled for most of my life about one thing or another.
                            Thanks for the help.
                            Lee

                            Comment


                              #15
                              You battery is at 12.63 fully charged?
                              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X