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    #1

    carb synch readings

    I've started doing some more maintenance on my '83 GS1100G now that it is snowing outside.
    I hooked up my vacuum gauge (and homemade hose/4 way valve contraption) after warming the bike up I got some readings and would like to get comparisons/feedback from others.
    While trying to keep the tach between 2700-3000rpm these were my results:
    Carb #1 23 cm (9 in)
    #2 23 cm
    #3 22 cm
    #4 23 cm

    Keep in mind the needle bounced some so my readings were the mid-range - example 23 cm was watching the needle even out at 2700-3000rpm but still fluttering between 21 and 25 cm and 22 cm was fluctuating between 20 cm and 23/24 cm
    Based on my results I didn't think it is necessary to make any adjustments.
    Comments? or what did you all get for readings who've done carb synchro?
    Tags: None
    #2
    Those readings are pretty good. On some models with CV carbs the Suzuki manual calls for setting the inner carbs slightly lower than the outer two - not sure about your particular bike. At any rate, you can leave the sync alone unless you want to make it perfect, which doesn't hurt.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

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    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by Nessism View Post
      Those readings are pretty good. On some models with CV carbs the Suzuki manual calls for setting the inner carbs slightly lower than the outer two - not sure about your particular bike. ....
      AFAIK, this was due to the design of the stock exhaust system, with the inner two pipes inter-connected....with an aftermarket system, its ok to have equal readings across the board.
      Tony.
      '82 GS1100E



      Comment

        #4
        Leave it alone!!

        I think you've done a superb job. I also don't think there is any possible way getting them exactly right will make any difference; you are there!! (IMHO).
        1980 GS1100E....Number 15!

        Comment

          #5
          My bike has the stock exhaust (with the #2 and 3 header pipes having the x-over pipe).
          I've read that the #2 and 3 carbs should have slightly lower vacuum settings but with my readings so close I wasn't going to fiddle with it.

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by lurch12_2000 View Post
            My bike has the stock exhaust (with the #2 and 3 header pipes having the x-over pipe).
            I've read that the #2 and 3 carbs should have slightly lower vacuum settings but with my readings so close I wasn't going to fiddle with it.
            The outer 2 carbs should be 3cfm higher which on the merc stick gauge would be a little above the next line on the gauge.It is marked in 2 cfm increments which would take you all day and a half a tank of gas to get that close! Your good, go riding!!!!!

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by tconroy View Post
              The outer 2 carbs should be 3cfm higher... It is marked in 2 cfm increments ...
              How are you measuring CFM? :shock:

              Hopefully you are mis-interpreting that and really mean CM, as most vacuum gauges are calibrated in inches or centimeters (cm). Yes, the lines are typically 2 cm apart, but my Clymer and Suzuki manuals both show the proper adjustment to be more like 1/2 cm difference between the inner and outer cylinders. The steel balls in the Suzuki gauge appear to be about 1 cm in diameter, and the manual says "If the balls in No. 1 and No. 4 or No. 2 and No. 3 carburetor balancers are off more than the radius of the ball, make an adjustment ..."

              As mentioned by previous posters (but never by Suzuki), this applies to stock exhaust systems with the balance tube between pipes 2&3. If you have stock pipes without the balancer or an aftermarket system, adjust all vacuum readings the same.
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              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by Steve View Post
                How are you measuring CFM? :shock:

                Hopefully you are mis-interpreting that and really mean CM, as most vacuum gauges are calibrated in inches or centimeters (cm). Yes, the lines are typically 2 cm apart, but my Clymer and Suzuki manuals both show the proper adjustment to be more like 1/2 cm difference between the inner and outer cylinders. The steel balls in the Suzuki gauge appear to be about 1 cm in diameter, and the manual says "If the balls in No. 1 and No. 4 or No. 2 and No. 3 carburetor balancers are off more than the radius of the ball, make an adjustment ..."

                As mentioned by previous posters (but never by Suzuki), this applies to stock exhaust systems with the balance tube between pipes 2&3. If you have stock pipes without the balancer or an aftermarket system, adjust all vacuum readings the same.
                you are right.That's what happens when your trying to type and watch television at the same time!!!Im not using ball to measure,I have the merc carb sticks and the Suzuki dealer told me to set the outer ones to the next line above the inner ones.

                Comment

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