things to do with disassembled engine

[79-GS550-L]

Hi everybody,

I'm taking my bike completely apart, all the way down to the frame. I'm planning on powdercoating the frame and then painting/powdercoating/polishing/plating each piece as I put it back on. I've got 3 questions:

1. While I've got it apart, what sort of things should I be doing, besides visually examining everything for wear? Last I checked, all cylinders had fairly similar compression, all within spec. I'm not looking for crazy/expensive mods, but anything that can be upgraded fairly easily/cheaply might be a good idea (and anything that's likely to fail later on that should be proactively replaced). This is my first time opening up a crankcase, so go easy on me please The fuel/air/exhaust system is currently stock.

2. Also, I'm not sure if my kickstarter is working properly. If the bike is resting on it's sidestand, I can turn it over no problem. But if it's standing up straight (and the shocks are compressed a bit) it just spins without turning the engine. Is that how it's supposed to work? Or maybe it's nearing the end of it's life?

3. Finally, can an air-cooled engine's cylinder block/head be powdercoated safely? I think I remember hearing about special powder or paint that transmitted heat well but I can't find it now.

Thanks,
Alex

[psyguy]

congrats on your project!

your manual tells you pretty much everything that you need to attend to during the examination
it pays to replace all the oil seals - rubber/plastic - in the engine even if they don't look worn (they are many years old)
this goes for all the intake boots, o-rings, etc as well
cam chain is another thing worth replacing while you have the cranckcases open

yes, there is a special coating for the engines

good luck and keep us posted, with pictures (of your bike, not you... as basscliff would say 8-[)

[79-GS550-L]

Thanks. Cam chain is definitely something I hadn't thought of. I also have heard of people replacing the ATU with a manual tensioner. Is that something I should look in to, or is it mostly just for racing/heavy modding? Mine has not given me any trouble yet (but that doesn't mean anything!). I'll have to search a little harder for that temp transfer powdercoat.

Ok, picture time, but I warn you these are UGLY! :-D

This is the way the bike looked when I first got it. The picture actually makes it look a lot better than it did in real life, cause you can't see all the imperfections.


This is what it looks like right now. Just the rear wheel and engine and frame.



My plan: Get rid of the sissy bar, add new straighter bars ("motocross" style I think), make a solo seat, cut the frame back to where the shocks attach and move the chrome fender so that it ends around where the stock turn signals would begin. Also new gauges since I broke mine But first I get to build a giant oven so I can bake my powdercoated frame. And learn how to powdercoat I guess, lol.

[Matchless]

I would not bother with powder coating yourself. Businesses that powder coat security gates, fences etc will do it very cheaply compared to what it will cost you. Just make sure that you bolt up all holes and cavities. They usually sandblast it before coating and you need to put bolts in tapped holes or cover with some temporary plates to keep that out.
I wish mine was stripped down as far as yours, as powder coating the frame is my next major part of the project - come 2008.
Good luck with your project and compliments of the season to you.

[hampshirehog]

I'd check every bearing as well and if in the slightest doubt replace. I would never recommend automatically buying genuine Suzuki as you'll pay through the nose but make sure that you get exactly the same bearing (bearing reference code will refer and do the research).

My mate recently bought a genuine Suzuki crank bearing for his TS250. It cost a lot (I can' remember but well into double figs). Stamped on it was 'Made in Germany'. Hmmmmm? Pattern part, also made in Germany, was around a tenner.

Wally

[79-GS550-L]

My buddy has a sandblaster, a large metal cabinet, and about 2 dozen stove elements. And lots of space. He's got a few bike frames that need coating too, so we were going to try setting up a powdercoating station ourselves. If it doesn't work, oh well

I had not thought about bearings either, that's definitely a good suggestion. How do I check them, just wiggling stuff to see if it has any play? And how do I find out the bearing reference code? I looked on bikebandit and it looks like my crankshaft bearings are "B1 30X72X19 BEA", part # 471582-001 and "RC 32X78X21 BRG", part #471875-001. Are those dimensions the only thing I need?

[TheCafeKid]

after great deliberation, i've stripped mine down as well. Motor is sitting in it, ready to come out, but thats a two man job. She's going to my basement, to be finished over what looks to be a harsh winter, and with luck shall emerge in the spring, ready to roll. I have a second motor, in much better cosmetic shape, that will be going in her, so my plan for the current motor is a bore kit, high lift cams and a complete valve job, and PJ1 paint to cover up the ugly. This will be a first attempt at such a job for me, so wish me luck...lol I too will be cracking the whole thing open, so i'll be watching your thread as well.

[Dave8338]

2. Also, I'm not sure if my kickstarter is working properly. If the bike is resting on it's sidestand, I can turn it over no problem. But if it's standing up straight (and the shocks are compressed a bit) it just spins without turning the engine. Is that how it's supposed to work? Or maybe it's nearing the end of it's life?\


Thanks,
Alex

If I remember correctly...there should be a spring that forces the gear to disengage/ engage. Sounds like it's broken to me.

[Nessism]

The Caswell website has a forum with lots of people posting engine parts (mostly valve covers) that have been powder coated. You might want to dig around there for more information. http://forum.caswellplating.com/

One other option for your engine is to use wet paint from Por-15. It’s killer tough stuff and far more chemical resistant than rattle can engine paint. On my 550 I used VHT rattle cans, it looks good but I don’t expect it to last super long.

[SqDancerLynn1]

It's a roller brg crank so the brgs should be OK just check to make sure it is straight, Get a straight piece of round bar stock & put it thru the small end of the rods they should all rest on the bar when you pick it up

[Commodus]

Well I only read the title, but here's my .02$

1) Make a necklace from the tranny gears and the cam chain and present it to your wife for Christmas. When she gets confused, look really hurt.

2) Borrow your friend's car. Bring it back to him with a handful of your engine bits in the front seat and comment innocently, "Oh you don't need those."

3) Walk up to Harley riders and say, "Your bike dropped this" *outstretch hand with counter-shaft sprocket*

4) Hide the parts around the house. When your kids find them, accuse them of stealing.

[Suzuki mad]

1/ Change any and all the seals within the engine for new.
2/ Check the gear selectors for wear and replace.
3/ Check for signs of wear on the cogs.
4/ Kick starter sounds like its not engaging, that will need sorting.
5/ Change all the gearbox, swing arm, steering head, wheel bearings.

6/ Powder coat if you want to, just mask up all the edges and bits that you don't want coated.
7/ New jets and needles for the carbs.
8/ Rebuild the bike as you took it apart. Don't change it.
9/ ENJOY!

Suzuki mad.

[psyguy]

back to your question... i think the consensus here is that the stock cam chain tensioner is quite all right given it's working properly and it's adjusted properly
follow the manual for the correct instalation procedure
(i've used the original tensioner after i rebuilt my engine and it works just fine)

[79-GS550-L]

You guys have been very helpful. Especially Commodus. I think my wife will be getting a nice sprocket necklace this year!

I think I will be putting it all back together without any mods, except for the handlebars and frame, seat, etc, since my handlebars are screwed up and I hated them anyways, and my seat is completely toast. But mechanically I guess I'll just renew and replace things with equivalent parts.

Also it is quite hard to find neutral, so from what I've read that could be bent shifter forks. Can I unbend them, or do they need to be replaced?

I'll have to think more about paint vs. powdercoat. I've never had much luck with any kind of paint on metal (durability wise), but I haven't tried the really expensive brands, so maybe that would help.

Nessism, that caswell forum is where I got the idea to do all this. They make it look so easy. I'm definitely getting some polishing stuff from them, someday I'd love to get that chrome plating kit! Although it costs more than the bike is worth...

[psyguy]

Also it is quite hard to find neutral, so from what I've read that could be bent shifter forks. Can I unbend them, or do they need to be replaced?

i also have this problem, but only when i happen to come to a stop in the first gear - then it's practically impossible to lift it up to neutral. but when the bike is moving then all ok.
i found this had nothing to do with bent forks. my whole gear changing setup looks very good so i'm at a loss on what might be wrong.