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Carb Jetting: The Lean Staggers

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    Carb Jetting: The Lean Staggers

    Here is a Self Service article written by Joe Minton that looks at why GS carbs are cold blooded & how to alleviate this common problem.

    I have found his pilot mixture screw rule of thumb to be indispensable.


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    1979 GS1000E (44 Yrs), 1981 GPz550
    Departed: 1970 Yamaha R5A, 1971 R5B, 1975 Honda XL250, 1983 Suzuki PE175, 1983 CB1100F, 1983 BMW R100RS, 1992 ST1100

    #2
    Originally posted by srsupertrap View Post
    Here is a Self Service article written by Joe Minton that looks at why GS carbs are cold blooded & how to alleviate this common problem.

    I have found his pilot mixture screw rule of thumb to be indispensable.


    http://www.mediafire.com/?1gwzy3nmf1s
    A very good article.Thanks for the link.
    I found the same when I fitted my big bore kit. I was expecting to have to change the pilot jet and the needle jet or the jet needle's position and the main jet size. All I ended up changing was the pilot jet size and pilot fuel screw position. That quite suprised me really!!
    I have since found more torque throughout the rev range by playing around with the electronic ignition advance.
    The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

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    Comment


      #3
      Excellent overview that makes one understand what you are really doing or intend doing. If you have the part 1 and follow up articles please share them as well.
      Thanks

      Comment


        #4
        mail please

        Hi,

        can anyone please mail the full article, as the link is blocked here due to some ****ty reasons...and I would like to read it, obviously...my email address is up-to-date in my profile.

        thanks a lot !

        best regards,

        gert

        Comment


          #5
          problem solved

          Problem solved,

          got mail immediately after post.

          thanks

          gert

          Comment


            #6
            I'm interested as to how many of you have done this and noticed a difference?

            Comment


              #7
              Has anyone got the rest of the series? It's a good read.

              Lurch - I think most people run their screw out a half to one turn richer than the 1.5turn that seemed to be stock from the factory. You can try it & see. I can get to mine without removing the tank, just prop it up at the back end on a tube of Fast Orange
              I put a marker line on the carb body when the were lightly fulled closed to help me count the turns.

              Dan
              1980 GS1000G - Sold
              1978 GS1000E - Finished!
              1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
              1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
              2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
              1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
              2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

              www.parasiticsanalytics.com

              TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

              Comment


                #8
                What link is it for the rest of the series, Ted

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by lurch12_2000 View Post
                  I'm interested as to how many of you have done this and noticed a difference?
                  Here's my experiences:


                  Comment


                    #10
                    pilot mixture screw location

                    I'm preparing to do some stuff including adjusting the pilot mixture screw but am looking over diagrams and forum carb pics to locate the cap that I have to drill out and remove so I can adjust but want to be sure I locate it properly on my 83 GS1100G.
                    Salty Monk, you said you could get at without removing the tank but had your caps already been drilled out and removed?
                    I'll probably be removing the carbs anyway to replace the intake boot o-rings and get a better look at it.
                    If someone has a pic that would help.
                    Maybe I'm not looking hard enough! or need new glasses...

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Here is a picture of #1 carb. The mixture adjustment screw is on top of the outlet of the carb. You can see it here, just to the right of the petcock.



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                      Comment


                        #12
                        thanks for the pic.
                        I put a yellow circle around where I'm supposed to drill (1/8" bit) and pry the aluminum cap out to expose the screw in your pic, correct?
                        Is there any danger of metal filings getting down in there where they can cause problems?
                        Excuse my dumb questions....but I don't want to create more problems than I fix!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yes that's it mate. The screw underneath has a pretty fine thread, I don't see any way swarf can get past it, give it a good blow out with some air before you disturb the screw & you'll be fine.

                          Dan
                          1980 GS1000G - Sold
                          1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                          1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                          1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                          2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                          1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                          2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

                          www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                          TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ok- started to do some winter work on the carbs and found the caps for the pilot mixture screw had already been removed by a PO. Unfortunately they buggered up the #4 carb as seen in the photo. So far I haven't been able to turn it with a flat head screwdriver and before I bugger it more than it is, any thoughts on adjusting or getting it out to replace. If I get it out will there be any markings to tell me what size it is or should I assume the stock size when ordering?
                            thanks

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Follow up- it looks like the PO had cut into the carb body too far and cut into the head of the screw. Not sure why they did it this way!

                              Comment

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