I have found his pilot mixture screw rule of thumb to be indispensable.
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Carb Jetting: The Lean Staggers
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Carb Jetting: The Lean Staggers
Here is a Self Service article written by Joe Minton that looks at why GS carbs are cold blooded & how to alleviate this common problem.
I have found his pilot mixture screw rule of thumb to be indispensable.
1979 GS1000E (44 Yrs), 1981 GPz550
Departed: 1970 Yamaha R5A, 1971 R5B, 1975 Honda XL250, 1983 Suzuki PE175, 1983 CB1100F, 1983 BMW R100RS, 1992 ST1100Tags: None
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Originally posted by srsupertrap View PostHere is a Self Service article written by Joe Minton that looks at why GS carbs are cold blooded & how to alleviate this common problem.
I have found his pilot mixture screw rule of thumb to be indispensable.
http://www.mediafire.com/?1gwzy3nmf1s
I found the same when I fitted my big bore kit. I was expecting to have to change the pilot jet and the needle jet or the jet needle's position and the main jet size. All I ended up changing was the pilot jet size and pilot fuel screw position. That quite suprised me really!!
I have since found more torque throughout the rev range by playing around with the electronic ignition advance.The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................
GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg
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Matchless
Excellent overview that makes one understand what you are really doing or intend doing. If you have the part 1 and follow up articles please share them as well.
Thanks
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gert du prez
mail please
Hi,
can anyone please mail the full article, as the link is blocked here due to some ****ty reasons...and I would like to read it, obviously...my email address is up-to-date in my profile.
thanks a lot !
best regards,
gert
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gert du prez
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lurch12_2000
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13889
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
Has anyone got the rest of the series? It's a good read.
Lurch - I think most people run their screw out a half to one turn richer than the 1.5turn that seemed to be stock from the factory. You can try it & see. I can get to mine without removing the tank, just prop it up at the back end on a tube of Fast Orange
I put a marker line on the carb body when the were lightly fulled closed to help me count the turns.
Dan1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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knotzilla
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Road_Clam
Originally posted by lurch12_2000 View PostI'm interested as to how many of you have done this and noticed a difference?
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lurch12_2000
pilot mixture screw location
I'm preparing to do some stuff including adjusting the pilot mixture screw but am looking over diagrams and forum carb pics to locate the cap that I have to drill out and remove so I can adjust but want to be sure I locate it properly on my 83 GS1100G.
Salty Monk, you said you could get at without removing the tank but had your caps already been drilled out and removed?
I'll probably be removing the carbs anyway to replace the intake boot o-rings and get a better look at it.
If someone has a pic that would help.
Maybe I'm not looking hard enough! or need new glasses...
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Here is a picture of #1 carb. The mixture adjustment screw is on top of the outlet of the carb. You can see it here, just to the right of the petcock.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
Family Portrait
Siblings and Spouses
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Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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lurch12_2000
thanks for the pic.
I put a yellow circle around where I'm supposed to drill (1/8" bit) and pry the aluminum cap out to expose the screw in your pic, correct?
Is there any danger of metal filings getting down in there where they can cause problems?
Excuse my dumb questions....but I don't want to create more problems than I fix!
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13889
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
Yes that's it mate. The screw underneath has a pretty fine thread, I don't see any way swarf can get past it, give it a good blow out with some air before you disturb the screw & you'll be fine.
Dan1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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lurch12_2000
Ok- started to do some winter work on the carbs and found the caps for the pilot mixture screw had already been removed by a PO. Unfortunately they buggered up the #4 carb as seen in the photo. So far I haven't been able to turn it with a flat head screwdriver and before I bugger it more than it is, any thoughts on adjusting or getting it out to replace. If I get it out will there be any markings to tell me what size it is or should I assume the stock size when ordering?
thanks
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lurch12_2000
Follow up- it looks like the PO had cut into the carb body too far and cut into the head of the screw. Not sure why they did it this way!
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