GS1000 Clutch Hub Rattle

[srsupertrap]

What's the exact root cause of why the GS1000 clutch hub rattles? My bike presently has 43K and the clutch hub has been rattling at idle for the last fifteen years. Not a very endearing quality trait, although a common one. The carbs have been synched via Twinmax, electronic carb balancer. I replaced the clutch hub roller bearing & two circular rubber plugs on the back of the clutch hub to no avail.

I suspect the springs that are on the back of the clutch hub?

[chef1366]

Are the springs loose or the rivets loose on the back of the hub?

[srsupertrap]

I don't have the clutch assy apart right now but I have previously torqued the Clutch Sleeve hub nut to the specified 50 lb-ft. I see from previous threads many GS owners have replaced the hub nut and washer with APE or B/B parts. Did this work?

Second, if I find loose hub springs has anyone invented a tool or method to replace the loose springs on the back of stock Suzuki clutch hub? I guess Falicon, APE etc are options but to be honest I am not interested in drag strip components at this stage.

I am more interested in eliminating the clutch rattle at idle.

[KGB]

It's part of our GS' character.

As Chef said, usually one or the other.

Doesn't affect performance.

[82Shafty]

Torsional springs are designed to absorb the initial engaugement (shock) of the clutch.

On the Zuk's we find that overtime those springs weaken allowing further radial movement which wears out the rivits more and your noise (rattle) grows louder and the springs take more of a beating, further compressing and not returning to their full height which increases the slack and rattle.

In extreme cases the do to long wear the rivets fail and you have a mess on your hands. ( read so on this board ).

If your basket does not have I believe it to be 1/32" or deeper grooves from the friction plates you can have APE or Falicon rebuild your unit.

They install heavy duty TV springs, a new steel backing with rivitis and weld the assembly together.

Afterwards they balance your assembly which is very, very important!

I've read cases where guys like yourself have had this rattle for 15 years and have not had any detrimental effects.

I've read guys who blew the baskets apart and claim it is very important to get it fixed or replaced right away.

I found that my heavy duty TV springs (3) were a little loose on the back but the weaker springs (3) were still plenty taught.

I am sure I will still have the rattle and if it drives me nuts enough will just order a new oem basket, fibers, and steels all at once and be done with it next winter. I maybe put 2000 miles a year on my bikes and that is a darn good year.

If I was a diehard who put 5000 or more miles a year on the bike, I'd probably send the basket out and have it welded.

I want to wait a season on the basket because I would much rather upgrade the stator and reg this season along with new tires and progressive front springs because I have to change the stupid fork seals anyways.

[cvmgtwowheels]

My bike has had the Rattle since it's first major service, basket welded, new springs, new plates, new shaft and it still rattles. I have been told that there is a fix and Suzuki in Shouthern Cal. knows how to fix it. But don't know what they do to fix it.