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    #16
    It's gotta be winter. :?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #17
      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
      It's gotta be winter. :?
      Yeah :-D

      I know from the drag boys that a little water sprayed into the intakes can help stave off detonation, and there was a guy in UK about 40 years ago who patented a device that sprayed a little water into carb throats which gave better running - I guess all of us have noticed that carb engines run noticeably better in cold, damp conditions.

      I also know that a little water sprayed into the carb is an old school mechanic's trick to help break up carbon deposits in the chamber.

      I just meant don't hose the stuff in there. I have a piston from a 2-stroke go-kart engine that vividly demonstrates the effect of too much water in the fuel. The kid broke 3 pistons in one afternoon before they figured out what was causing it.

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        #18
        well im about to take the head off because the valve's clearance is somewhere around .4 millimeters, not .04. i tapped the shim, scraped some carbon off, and sprayed sea foam in it. no luck

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          #19
          [QUOTE=catbed;746699]
          well im about to take the head off because the valve's clearance is somewhere around .4 millimeters, not .04.
          QUOTE]

          Need shims?
          http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

          Life is too short to ride an L.

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            #20
            Not to but into this thread, but this kinda goes along with what he's doing, so maybe it will be helpfull to him as well. I was checking my clearances on that motor i picked up off ebay. Intake side was all tight, so tight in fact the only one i could get into spec (due to the shims i had available at the time) went from a 2.80 to a 2.65. Exhaust were all within spec save for one, and i had the shim to fix that. Anyway, with all those intake valves being that far out of spec, it makes me worry about burnt intake valves. I looked down thru the plug hole to see what i could see of the intake valve and it didnt look cooked, the piston crowns are all a lil bit carboned but thats to be expected, especially considering based on the look of the plugs i pulled out of it and the smell of what oil was left in it, it had been running rich.

            Here's my question, is there a way with the motor out of the bike, and NOT pulling the head, to tell if the intake valves are cooked?

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              #21
              i was worried about a burnt intake valve too, but i couldnt determine if i had a burnt valve. i pulled the head and i dont have a burnt valve. i dont have a spring compressor though so i cant clean them right now.

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