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    carb rail

    Boy oh boy, it's only step 2 on the carb cleanup and already I'm stuck. How necessary is it to remove the carbs from rail to clean? The bolts won't budge. I've hit them WD and a gun and all that is happening is stripping :shock:.
    ANy suggestions

    thanks

    #2
    Originally posted by maro View Post
    How necessary is it to remove the carbs from rail to clean?
    Personally, I can't think of a good way to clean the carbs without separating them. 8-[


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      #3
      Hit them with impact driver or use a pair of vice grips tightened on the head of the screws. I second the need to separate the bodies to clean.

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        #4
        vote 2 for vice grips, they have never failed me yet, you just have to replace the bolts when you are done cuz they will get tore up.

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          #5
          I've always gotten them off with an impact. Is that what you are calling a gun?
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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            #6
            And once you have them out, replace all those crosshead screws with allen head stainless steel ones and get a set of T bar allen keys and when you assemble them it will be a breeze.

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              #7
              BY gun I mean drill. I do not have an impact driver. I will try the vice grips. Thanks ya'll.

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                #8
                Vice grips are not working. The screws are round on the head and I am having one hell of a time getting a good grip. I'm thinking about cutting the head of with a dremel bit and try my luck with the rest of the screw using vice grips. Does the rail have threads??? hope not

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                  #9
                  Impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer) is an essential tool when working on a GS. Go to Sears and pick one up - about $20. Well worth it.

                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by Nessism View Post
                    Impact driver (the type you hit with a hammer) is an essential tool when working on a GS. Go to Sears and pick one up - about $20. Well worth it.

                    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P

                    Almost the same thing available at Autozone. Just don't uy the crappy one at Harbor Freight. Also, if you do go the dremel route. after cutting the groove, use a large tip (#2) slotted driver with a square shaft pinched with vice grips. push down on the end of the driver with the heel of your left palm while turning the vice grips with the other hand. You'll get mucho more leverage with minimal twist and slip tendencies.

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                      #11
                      Well,

                      Rail #1 is off. The dremel worked. I Cut off most of the bolt until I could get a nice grip with the vice grips, once loose, came right out. HORAY I yelled, turned to the next page of the carb cleanup. The next diagram shows the 4 carbs apart. I look back at my carbs and turn them over, only to discover another F*cking rail. You must be kidding me. So I begin, again, by using my philips...stripety strip. This time the bolts are super shallow, no chance of getting the grips to grip. I need to buy that impact driver immediately, becuase this is rediculous, the sparks from the dremel are worrisome.

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