GS1100G shocks

[Guest]

Curious as to what the stock rear shock was on the 83 GS1100G for others?
Mine has the dial adjuster(1-4) on top, air valve on the side, but no external spring, just the rubber accordion boot around the lower half of the body.
Went for a 10 mile ride on the weekend(still cold but roads clear) and noticed a few drips on the garage floor after, coming from the left shock. Now that we got over a foot of snow today it's back in the garage and wondered if the shock is salvageable or anything I can rebuild?
thanks,
Steve

[Jd Powell]

Slide the rubber boot down and exaine the bottom of the shock body. If there is a snap ring holding the bottom plate in the shock is rebuildable. Most air shocks I've come across are assembled this way. Also they are prone to blowing seals if they do not have enough air pressure.

[lurch12_2000]

Thanks, I'll check to see if it has that.
Do you happen to know what the recommended air pressure range should be?

[lurch12_2000]

checked shock but no snap ring, and label on shock says 36 lbs max pressure. One shock had little or no pressure and other had 15 lbs.

[Steve]

I can't help you with the numbers that Suzuki recommends, but I can help you find the correct pressure. 8-[

This will require a helper or two, but is very accurate. When you find a suggested maximum pressure, inflate the shocks to about that amount. Hold the bike vertical, get a measurement of something at the back of the bike, like the license plate to the ground (this is where a friend helps). Sit on the bike, see if the rear suspension compresses at all. With the friend watching the measurement, slowly release pressure from the shocks until the bike drops about one inch. You may have to bounce the bike after releasing a bit of air to overcome the friction of the suspension and get it to settle into place. Now put the bike back on the centerstand and read the pressure in the shocks. That is your correct pressure for solo riding. That should only be checked when the shocks are fully extended, whether that is on the centerstand or sidestand. If you are going to check the pressure while on the side stand, pull the bike to the left to make sure the shocks are fully extended.

Do you often ride with a passenger? Re-inflate the shocks to the maximum, repeat the procedure with the passenger on the back seat and you on the front. Again, you are looking for a one inch drop from fully extended. Again, place the bike so the shocks are fully extended (on the centerstand is best) and measure the pressure. Now you have your two-up pressure.

I have no experience with the Suzuki air shocks, but have found that sometimes you can inflate past what the manufacturer suggests as a maximum if that is what it takes to maintain enough travel in the suspension. An example of this is that Honda suggests a maximum of 57 psi in the rear of my Wing. When I got the bike, I went through the above procedure and found that 70 psi was good for solo, but if I carry a passenger that is big enough to cast a shadow, I call up the max I could get out of the on-board air compressor, 102 psi. That is OK for most passengers, but just barely works to keep some semblance of travel when I have my dimensionally-enhanced son on the back. :shock:


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[lurch12_2000]

I may replace my stock rear air shocks and was wondering if the spring style shocks off an 82 GS1100L parts bike would fit? Looking at this web site it looks like the 82 GS1100L and 83 GS1100G list the same shock.

http://www.ikonsuspension.com/content/application_lists/shock_absorbers/suzuki_shock_application.shtml

Any comments on air shocks vs spring shocks on the rear and which is better or preferred?
There is also a set of used GS1100G air shocks listed on e-bay but not sure if they're worth buying.

[Jd Powell]

Most stock shocks for our old bikes are completely clapped out and useless. Progressive makes several compatible shocks for a pretty reasonable price, and they are rebuildable.

[twr1776]

I second the opinion of not gettng a used OEM shock. They were not that good to begin with and they are now over 20 years old and shocks do not get better with age. Have you replaced the front springs yet? If not do them first since they are more important to the handling and less expensive to replace. If you have already done the front the Progressives, Ikons, and Hagons are all good choices for the back.

[Steve]

Any comments on air shocks vs spring shocks on the rear and which is better or preferred?

A lot of that depends on how you ride.

Years (and years) ago, I traded the barely-adequate stock shocks on my KZ1300 for S&W air shocks. Unlike most of the 'air' shocks that are available today, they used only air for the spring, there was no metal spring at all. On a heavy touring bike that frequently changed loading conditions, they were near-perfect. I had the advantage of an on-board air compressor, so I could add air as necessary when carrying a passenger. I also had their gauge set on the handlebar, so I could monitor pressure in the shocks and the forks. On my GoldWing, I took off Honda's stock setup, which is one shock with a metal spring and one shock with air, and installed Progressive 416-series shocks that use metal and air in both shocks. It's better, but still not as good as I remember the S&Ws were on the KZ.

If you have the typical GS that might not even have a luggage rack, let alone saddlebags, carrying an air compressor would be a bit of a hassle. Progressive Suspension offers several models that will work for your bike. By calling the factory for some tech support, they will guide you through choosing the proper shock length and damping, and the proper rate springs. By combining the rear shocks with a fork spring change, you will think that somebody slipped a new bike in there when you weren't looking. 8-[


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[lurch12_2000]

Steve,
80% of riding solo(175 pounds) with some stuff(less than 10 pounds) in my saddle bags, 20% riding with a passenger(another 120-160 pounds).
My shocks do not have the metal springs and are only air charged with the hydraulic fluid and are at the #3 setting. At least one appears to be leaking some fluid and also had no air pressure. The other has some signs of fluid on the shaft when you pull the rubber boot down and 15 pounds of air.
My fault for not checking air pressures sooner! So I assume without any air there is no "spring" on bumps except from the dampening of the fluid, putting more stress on the hydraulics. I inflated to 36 lbs but it is hard to get an accurate read because when you put the gauge on as quick as possible you'll lose some of the small amount of air anyway which drops the reading.
Do you think switching to the metal spring style off a GS1100L parts bike has would be better as long as they are not leaking?