Honda RR mounting

[robertob]

The late model Honda R/R has .320" wide blade terminals for the stator lines, Suzuki uses .225" blades, and dual .225" blades (two pair) for the positive and negative connections. The Suzuki regulator uses one .225" blade for positive and a small ground bolting to the battery box.

Good to know on the late Suzuki ones - mine was all craptastic bullet

I couldn't find mating .320 female blade connectors for the Honda RR so that's why I just converted everything to Packard 56 .250 blades. Pins are cheap, connectors shells are cheap, 20A capacity that's why I like them so much. Plus I have handfuls of new pins & shells from when I had '60s Mopars.

[KiwiGS]

Not My idea.

I feel I should point out that the fan on the reg/rec is not my idea.
I found out about a guy who had done it on his VFR Honda.
If anybody wants I can post the link - it is quite interesting. I am sure the Honda unit I have just bought will last longer than the OEM unit.
I have always ridden with my lights on and plan to do so on the GS, so I see the fan as a cheap insurance policy.
After all I had to get my new unit from the other side of the world (Thanks again Duaneage)
I will let those who are interested know how it lasts.
Cheers

[Nessism]

Started installing the Honda R/R on my '82 850 last night - I've got a late model Honda R/R off a 2004 CBR600.

Honda R/R has large gauge wires for the stator feeds, much larger than the wires coming from the stator inself. The factory stator connects to the wire harness with bullets, which have evidence of heat already even though the bike only has 3500 miles on it.

The Honda R/R has two ground wires and two positive wires. Thinking about connecting one of the positive wires back into the main wire harness and running the other direct to the battery (with a fuse in-line). Does this sound right? According to the wiring diagram, the original configuration for the bike has the positive off the R/R feeding into the ignition switch thus I think the bike wants to see voltage there to feed various systems.

Another question, I know you guys don't like the factory connectors, but considering the small wires off the stator, is there any real value in going to high current flat terminals when the wires are so small - seems like a mismatch?

[duaneage]

I would make darn sure those two outputs are connected to each other and don't have different functions. Use a meter and see if there is 0 ohms between them. I don't use thee RR's because there are differences sometimes. If you decide to go right to the battery insert a fuse in a carrier between the RR and the battery for safety. Failure to do so could be a problem if something goes wrong. I would try and stay true to the original path, the problem is the Suzuki PEM RR, not how it was wired in or where it goes first.

As to current, the stator is high voltage low current so connector resistance is not really an issue like it is with the red output ( low voltage high current). I have no problem with NEW bullet connectors, they provide the same if not greater surface area as a flat blade, and when you look at the female flat blade you'll see how little of the connector actually mates with the male. As long as the connectors snap in tight it really doesn't matter.

six one, half a dozen the other way.

[robertob]

Started installing the Honda R/R on my '82 850 last night - I've got a late model Honda R/R off a 2004 CBR600.

Honda R/R has large gauge wires for the stator feeds, much larger than the wires coming from the stator inself. The factory stator connects to the wire harness with bullets, which have evidence of heat already even though the bike only has 3500 miles on it.

The Honda R/R has two ground wires and two positive wires. Thinking about connecting one of the positive wires back into the main wire harness and running the other direct to the battery (with a fuse in-line). Does this sound right? According to the wiring diagram, the original configuration for the bike has the positive off the R/R feeding into the ignition switch thus I think the bike wants to see voltage there to feed various systems.

That's how I wired it up. I followed the original Honda CBR wiring diagram - has the two positive wires connect downstream of the RR. I ran one to the original RR connection (which comes off the fuse box on mine), and the other direct to the battery.

The RR I used is a Shindengen SH678, and it just so happens that Shindengen has the datasheet on their website:

http://www.eshindengen.com/catalog/SH678%20data%201.pdf

[themess]

This is a great discussion! I hope that it somehow gets saved for easy future reference.

[robertob]

For reference, the SH678 wired up like a stock 929 gives 14.8 volts at idle with no lights on. With lights on, it drops to 13.8 and hits 14.8 at 2300 rpm.