GS650G vs. GS650M

[tconroy]

I used to have a GS650G, bought it new, and lost it to a driver in Texas. I wish that I still had it. It was designed from the ground up for shaft drive, and Suzuki did a bang-up job with it. Only reason to not have one is the scarcity of parts. I imagine that the GS650G Katana is even more scarce.

I have an 83 650L which does not have roller bearings,it is sleeved and also has a high pressure oil system because of this.I have had no problems without an oil cooler but also wondered if it needs one.All parts for a 650 are hard to come by so if you see any out there pick em' up if they fit.I still dont know why they made the L model different than the rest of the 650's

[waterman]

I have an 83 650L which does not have roller bearings,it is sleeved and also has a high pressure oil system because of this.I have had no problems without an oil cooler but also wondered if it needs one.All parts for a 650 are hard to come by so if you see any out there pick em' up if they fit.I still dont know why they made the L model different than the rest of the 650's

The difference between g , l , and m models were cosmetic, both have same motors; plain bearing cranks and high pressure oil systems. The gs650E, chain drive, has the more typical gs roller bearing crank, low pressure system. The top ends are similar enough to use same head, base, and valve cover gaskets when staying within same model year.

Essentially, the 650e is a bored out 8 valve550, the lower ends even share same gaskets (clutch, generator, and oil pan. The e model did lose a gear when bumped up to 650. Several member here have successful grafted 650 topends to 550 lowers to gain better performance.

As for parts, Ebay has been fairly easy place to get parts. Quite a few parts are still available from dealers. Aftermarket was limited, always more parts for larger, higher performance motorcycles.

[tconroy]

The difference between g , l , and m models were cosmetic, both have same motors; plain bearing cranks and high pressure oil systems. The gs650E, chain drive, has the more typical gs roller bearing crank, low pressure system. The top ends are similar enough to use same head, base, and valve cover gaskets when staying within same model year.

Essentially, the 650e is a bored out 8 valve550, the lower ends even share same gaskets (clutch, generator, and oil pan. The e model did lose a gear when bumped up to 650. Several member here have successful grafted 650 topends to 550 lowers to gain better performance.

As for parts, Ebay has been fairly easy place to get parts. Quite a few parts are still available from dealers. Aftermarket was limited, always more parts for larger, higher performance motorcycles.

I have purchased all my mechanical parts from the dealer and saved on shipping charges.i have yet to run across used 4into1 exhaust systems.Ebay does have a good deal of parts from time to time for these.I have 32000 on my bike and it still runs like brand new and has no leaks at all.I have rebuilt just about everything on it but the engine and hope I never have to go that far.It is for sale if anyone wants to buy it.

[BassCliff]

Hi guys,

As for adding oil coolers to our bikes, I thought Mr. terry was the guy to go to. Seems he's in Australia. But I don't know if he makes one for the 650. See these threads:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=101412

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=118609

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=115884

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[waterman]

BassCliff, I don't believe this oil cooler connection will work on the shaft driven 650 motor since they don't have the oil pressure switch on top of the crankcase like other motors. I believe the oil switch is located on the right crank end under the signal generator plate. Not sure about 650E, but if similar to 550 case then it should work.
I think the original question centered around the fact that the 650 Katana came with a factory oil cooler and how hard would it be to graft to regular a 650g. Thanks for the links, it looks like a great setup for those it works for.

[BassCliff]

Best laid plans

BassCliff, I don't believe this oil cooler connection will work on the shaft driven 650 motor since they don't have the oil pressure switch on top of the crankcase like other motors....

Hi Mr. waterman,

I was afraid of that. Thanks for setting me straight.

Mr. darkbane,

I hope you get it figured out. When you do, please share with the group. :-D

I'll hang up on myself now. 8-[

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[ajf]

I've been wanting to put an oil cooler on my 83 gs650g and I finally found one on EBAy for a great price. It looks as though it goes on the Katana 650 of the same year.
DB

I'd like to know why you want to install an oil cooler. Have you measured the oil temperature and seen a problem? If so, what do consider a high oil temperature, and at what ambient temperatures and riding conditions do you see high oil temperatures?

Or, is it just for the bling factor?

[darkbane]

It's not necessarily for Bling factor considering I'm putting it on a cafe style bike.

I don't have an oil temp sensor on my bike (looking for one). Almost all of my miles are stop and go (seems like more stop than anything) traffic. Chicago isn't a constant 100 degrees in the summer like some states, but it can't get pretty damn hot and stay hot for a while. I ride a lot and sometimes hard, so I guess I'd just like the extra confidence that I'm not doing any harm to my bike. On the super hot days, I seem to feel a bit of a performance difference.

I definitely don't think that there is a need for one constantly operating that's why I'd want to install the inline thermostat bypass and have the cooler for when it needs it.

Plus I'm not used to running at 5000-65000 rpm on the freeway (freaks me out a bit).

I've already read the other threads with this debate, and everyone seems to have their own opinion. If everyones opinion was that it would have no advantages whatsoever, then I probably wouldn't even give it a thought.

Cheers

[ajf]

I don't have an opinion I'm pushing - just looking for information.

I've been using the bike for local trips lately so I can avoid riding at more than 90 degrees, which happens a dozen or so days a year here. However, I'm hoping to get back into touring on it, and it's not always possible to avoid riding when it's unbearably hot. In the first few years I owned it I rode in some really hot weather without any sign of overheating, but I was using 20W50 oil then. I switched to 10W40 for a trip to the Yukon, and found the engine became really noisy by 2000 miles. However, the gas mileage improved by 20%, so now I'm using 10W40 synthetic (Motul). which seems to last a lot longer. I'm hoping it will be as resistant to heat as 20W50.

If you eventually get an oil temperature gauge, I'd be very interested in reading a post of your temperatures for various riding conditions.

[darkbane]

I've been looking around for oil temp gauges but haven't had much luck. I like the look of the type you replace your oil fill cap with(I've heard they may not be as accurate though), but they seem to come and go on ebay and the only store I found that had them was in the uk and they didn't ship over seas.

I know there's a guy on here that sells some pretty nice ones that tap into the engine block, but the last time I looked, the ones for the 650's required extra hardware and mounted in a weird and odd looking place. I'll post a link when I find the thread.

Suggestions?

[Smokinapankake]

If you're running 65000 RPM I'd like to hear that motor sing!!:-D

[duaneage]

On the rear of the head there is a bolt that I believe goes into the oil passage for the valve train. If the pressure there is different from the pressure at the filter cover you could induce flow from one place to another. Run it through a cooler and there you go. The small opening in the head would need an adapter but that would help form a natural restriction. Restriction is needed to prevent pressure from being dropped in the valve train. You would also need lines and additional oil to make up for the system.

An Aussie sent me pictures 2 years ago of his Katana filter system and when I saw the different oil pan I abandoned the idea. But if the head can provide a return or supply source then it could be possible.

The bling factor of course makes it worth it.