valve shim details

[Guest]

Just finished the valve adjustment work on my GS1100G and here's some details for those who might be interested for comparisons.

#1 exhaust 2.65? to 2.60x ---.07mm
#1 intake 2.60 to 2.55 ---.05
#2 exhaust 2.65x to 2.60x ---.07
#2 intake 2.60x to 2.55 ---.08
#3 exhaust 2.65x to 2.55 ---.07
#3 intake 2.60x to 2.60 ---.07
#4 exhaust 2.70x to 2.60 ---.08
#4 intake 2.60 to 2.55 ---.07

As you can see I had to change all 8 valve shims, some 2 sizes smaller. All previous gaps were somewhere under .038mm. I had one shim that had no label but through trial and error estimate it was a 2.65. By shuffling the shims I only had to buy 4 new 2.55 shims from Z1enterprises. Local dealer only had one shim to trade no charge (2.65x for my 2.70x) but turned out it was still too large. My smallest feeler gauge was .038mm but it still worked fine as anything smaller is beyond the .03mm -.08mm recommended gap range anyway. I have a .038, .051, .064, .076, and .102mm feeler gauges so the smaller would slide through and the larger would not so I rounded it to the in between whole number. I used the .038 and .051 combined to get .09mm... you get the idea... I strongly recommend you try the "zip-tie" tool that costs nothing and is so easy to use. I have not used the official $20 tool but I bet you it isn't any easier than this! I used 2 zip ties and had 2 valves open at a time to make things go much smoother swapping things around.

[Steve]

I strongly recommend you try the "zip-tie" tool that costs nothing and is so easy to use. I have not used the official $20 tool but I bet you it isn't any easier than this!

I tried the zip-tie method a few days ago on another member's 850 and, yes, it's much easier, but I have to throw a very strong caution out there:
If there is a LOT of carbon in the engine, don't use the zip-ties. :shock:

When we got done taking inventory for the spreadsheet and moving shims around, I checked clearances and found that 3 of the valves that had not had shims changed had greatly increased their clearances. I think some carbon had gotten disloged and got stuck, holding the valves open.

We also found that there were 21 pins, not 20, between the timing marks on the cams, which might have led to all the carbon. We did have it running after a valve check and carb clean, but it did not sound quite right, so we started digging a little deeper and found these other problems.

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[TheCafeKid]

Ohh...thanks for reminding me! I should check that on this motor before i seal it all back up.

[lurch12_2000]

I tried the zip-tie method a few days ago on another member's 850 and, yes, it's much easier, but I have to throw a very strong caution out there:
If there is a LOT of carbon in the engine, don't use the zip-ties. :shock:

When we got done taking inventory for the spreadsheet and moving shims around, I checked clearances and found that 3 of the valves that had not had shims changed had greatly increased their clearances. I think some carbon had gotten disloged and got stuck, holding the valves open.

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Good point, Steve. Thanks.
I'm not sure the plastic zip tie would dislodge anything but the soft powdery carbon, BUT....after I was done changing/shuffling shims and measuring I turned the crank a few more full revolutions and then went back and re-checked all my gaps after to be sure that the valves and shim were seated properly.

Anyone else find this a problem too? or is it the shims were not properly seated? also when the engine is cold and it is 10 degrees in the garage up here in New England, the oil thickens and you have to sure your paper thin feeler gauge (.038 or .051mm) is not getting hung up incorrectly.

[Steve]

I'm not sure the plastic zip tie would dislodge anything but the soft powdery carbon, ...

Evidently what we had wasn't so 'soft and powdery'. We'll find out when we take it apart in a couple of weeks.


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[lurch12_2000]

Please let me know what you find on your valves and if the zip ties scraped off carbon somehow. Did you fold over the end to round off the plastic edge before using? BTW my bike has 35k miles on it.
After I put my bike back together, primed it, it started right up and was nowhere near as cold blooded as before, able to pull choke off sooner and warmed to steady idle(1100rpm) quicker, and sounded nice and smooth when warmed up. I also had turned my pilot mixture screws a 1/2 turn out to 2 full turns(except the carb #4 screw which I found buggered up and I'm still debating whether I want to remedy by some "extraction" method). You know...leave well enough alone...
I would have taken it out for a road test but it's 10 degrees out and there are ice patches on the road and my windshield was still off from working on it! I was tempted.....