Is losing the key ignition possible?

[tkent02]

I'm debating something like this too, since my ignition key is getting worn, and sometimes hard to turn.

The only problem is that you still need the key for the gas cap.
(and in my case the helmet lock if I use it)

Any easy way to make the gas cap not require that key ?

Remove the tumblers from the lock, then a screwdriver or anything will open it.

[Zooks]

It kind of defeats the purpose though when you still need to carry a key for the padlock (on the front disc) and a screwdriver to open the fuel tank??????

[Junkie]

It kind of defeats the purpose though when you still need to carry a key for the padlock (on the front disc) and a screwdriver to open the fuel tank??????

and that's why you use a combination lock for the front disc. On my GS the gas cap is removed in a somewhat strange way, you put the key in and then rotate the entire top of it (but not just the key) - I suspect you could break a key off in there or something and have it work fine.

[drhach]

A couple of things to consider. Make sure your switch is waterproof. Or at least water resistant. The same goes for the pushbutton or whatever you intend to use. Waterproof switchest get kind of expensive when you start meiking them handle the load of a starter or ignition switch. You probably could use a micro switch wired to a realy. That way you could take advantage of the selection of really small switches that are out there and still power your bike.

[Junkie]

Is the ignition not relay-based on the GS? Wow. I'd be very surprised if all of the power for the starter runs up to the handlebars and back, but I suppose it's possible.

[Steve]

Is the ignition not relay-based on the GS? Wow. I'd be very surprised if all of the power for the starter runs up to the handlebars and back, but I suppose it's possible.

If you follow the electrical path through the bike, you will soon see that there are only two relays on the entire bike. One is the starter solenoid, the other is the turn signal flasher. All of the power required to run the bike (not counting the starter motor) does go through the ignition switch. There are some variations based on year and model, but basically, power goes from the battery to the main fuse, to the ignition switch, back to the fuse panel to power the other three fuses, then to the rest of the bike. The three circuits protected by fuses are 1 - lights (headlight, tail light), 2 - signals (turn signals, brake, horn), 3 - ignition.


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[Ironriot]

Lots of good and VERY suprising info here. Thanks erebody! I think I'm gonna attempt this soon. I'll let you all know how it works out

[tone]

I removed the ignition switch & start button on one of my chops many years ago

I replaced the ignition switch with a micro switch that had a bolt head glued to it so that it looked just like any number of other bolts around the bike :-D the start button was the bell push from a bus complete with its "push once" surround in two years not one person sussed the hidden switch :-D

I also fitted a simple hidden barrel key cutout switch so i could completely isolate the real everyday ignition when parking up for long periods of time

Another idea is to fit a remote ignition which works off a key fob, they are on sale here in the uk, but the remote sensor & other parts can be bought cheaply from maplins if you have a bit of patience you could make one quite easilly
Maplins also sell a key pad that you could possably wire to your ignition which would give you an ignition which relies on you remembering the combination :-D