Need Some Basic CV Carb Advice Please

[Chuckster]

I could really use some help with my carbs. I have looked over the "carb clean & repair pictorial" on the homepage in preparation of trying to get my carbs running right on my 1981 GS550T. Somebody really did a good job with that. And I have read everything I can find about CV carbs in general just to try to help myself as much as I can. But you can only read so much right? Sooner or later I have to do. I currently have four carb rebuild kits which came with my bike that I haven't used yet. I know some of you don't have nice things to say about these kits, but I'm just telling what I have. My biggest apprehension is seperating the carbs in trying to refresh them. I'm not real nervous about replacing the jets and all, but I don't have the tools or experience to "sync" them after they are all put back together. I know this won't be cleaning them to the nth degree which they probably need, but can I clean them and replace the jets, etc. without separating them and at least get it running again? I don't want to seperate them and wish I hadn't. I let it sit for about six months while I was replacing a lot of things on it and now it will crank, but only with the choke all the way out and it shuts down as soon as you put it back down some. It's running real lean and heats up quick. From what I've read, it sounds like at least the pilot circuit needs some help. I haven't tried to back out the mixture screws yet to see if I can at least get it to stay running. Before I started working on it, I was riding it with the choke just barely out. Thanks for any suggestions.

-Chuck

[chiphead]

You can clean them adequately by removing them from the bike, removing the float bowls, pulling the caps off and taking out the slides then using aerosol carb clean and compressed air to douche them out. Separating them is optional unless you have a leak between carb bodies. Go slow and pay attention.

[duaneage]

Go to www.cycle-orings.com and spend 12 dollars on the set of o rings for these carbs. You're probably going to need new ones after all these years.

Separating the carbs is not a big deal.

1. Be organized and do one carb at a time. I used baby food jars for the parts from each carb.

2. Spray cleaners are OK but after all teh work of getting them out if they are still dirty your going to be frustrated to do it again. I would do it right the first time.

3. Get good screwdrivers, or good bits, that fit the heads well.

4. There is one thing in the carb rebuild story on the GSR I disagree with. Rather than try to tap out the float pins, use a pair of small wire cutters to grab the head of the pin and pull them out. I broke a float tower tapping on the pin. This is a common problem and the fixes are not easy. You can work the pin for the float out with small diagonal cutters and not damage anything.

5. Clean the tank after your done. Clean it good. Use new fuel line and install on the carbs BEFORE you put them back on the bike. It's hard to get in there so use new 5/16" line and leave plenty to spare. Use new clamps too.

6. Bench sync with a small drill bit. Start with #3 carb and then do 1.2.4 in that order. Check 3,1,2,4 again. The idea is to make sure they all open the same amount. You may have to turn the throttle screw in a bit to open them enough.

7. After #6, turn the throttle screw in so the plates bottom in the carb bore, then open 1 1/2 turns. I didn't do this and had bike running at 5000 rpm when I fired it up. Bottom each idle mixture screw carefully and back out 1 1/2 turns for starters. A carb sync tool is a great idea but if your not used to using one find another GSR guy near you that might have one.

8. Get new intake boots or at least new O rings in the intake boots since this is a great time to replace them.


9. Replace the darn phillips head screws holding the boots in with bolts, again a great time to do this. Torque to 6 foot /lbs.

10. Attach the throttle and choke cables before you push the carbs into the intake boots. Again, this is easier than later when the place you need to work is against the frame.

11. Slick the boots on the airbox and intake boots with wd-40 or silicon spray. You'll thank it later.

12. Check for fuel leaks carefully before riding, this is a major repair and gasoline burns in the open quite easily on hot engines.

[TheCafeKid]

One thing also...when ya put your floats back in...check the levels. Do it now before you get them all together and then think you may have to do it. Like me. Heh