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tightening not on starter clutch

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    tightening not on starter clutch

    The nut that holds my starter clutch came loose on my 81 GS 1100E, I pulled the crank case off and tightened everything. The problem is, I can not torque the nut down very tight before the crank turns. I tried it as is and the the bike turned over twice before it came loose again. How can I get it tighter? Would thread lock be a bad idea?

    Dave

    #2
    Put it into fifth, have someone stand on the back break and give it a turn... Make sure that the end was not damaged and hit the parts with some break clean first.

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      #3
      Originally posted by lecroy View Post
      Put it into fifth, have someone stand on the back break and give it a turn... Make sure that the end was not damaged and hit the parts with some break clean first.
      OR, put a 2x4 through the spokes in the back wheel under the swingarm. Works good too.

      Comment


        #4
        Putting the bike in 5th gear and a 2 x 4 through the rear rim works well if you have a mag wheel. For a spoked wheel. its better to put it in 5th gear and have someone hold the rear brake pedal down. Yes, blue loctite is a good idea. Its always worked well for me.

        Earl
        Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

        I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

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          #5
          Use a 1/2 inch drive air impact to install the nut & put RED loctite on the threads the nut goes on. Blue loctite is useless in this application. Ray.

          Comment


            #6
            If I recall correctly I just put a copper coin between the teeth of the small and large gear and had no problem.

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              #7
              Thanks

              Thanks for the advice everything worked great. I got my bike together yesterday and let the locktite dry over night, and took herfor a ride today, even started without any choke.

              Thanks again
              Dave

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by dshroyer View Post
                Thanks for the advice everything worked great. I got my bike together yesterday and let the locktite dry over night, and took herfor a ride today, even started without any choke.

                Thanks again
                Dave
                Dave,
                If it was cold out this is NOT a good thing.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Blue Loctite in that application on an 85 1150E was doing just fine 40K miles later when I sold it.

                  Earl


                  Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                  Use a 1/2 inch drive air impact to install the nut & put RED loctite on the threads the nut goes on. Blue loctite is useless in this application. Ray.
                  Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

                  I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Had the camera out today. I love home made tools made of old parts....
                    The one to the right works great to hold the clutch when you hit the nut with an air wrench. The other I use to tighten that same nut and also the starter nut on the bench (once the clutch is installed).

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Not arguing, but blue thread sealer is only intended for light to medium duty use.
                      Red thread sealer is used for higher torque values such as the rotor nut.
                      And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                      Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks Keith. After being a licensed motorcycle mechanic for over 20 years it's nice to hear someone else with experience speak up. Ray.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by lecroy View Post
                          Had the camera out today. I love home made tools made of old parts....
                          The one to the right works great to hold the clutch when you hit the nut with an air wrench. The other I use to tighten that same nut and also the starter nut on the bench (once the clutch is installed).
                          Good stuff Mark!
                          Kris, warm up the welder!
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            starter clutch

                            Originally posted by rapidray View Post
                            Use a 1/2 inch drive air impact to install the nut & put RED loctite on the threads the nut goes on. Blue loctite is useless in this application. Ray.
                            +1 on the above response!

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