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    I've Had it!

    I rebuilt the front master cylinder on my 1980 GS 850 GT and the thing will not prime. I rebuilt the calipers and even installed new stainless lines so there are no clogs or anything and when I pump it won't prime. I even tried pulling the leave back and letting it sit over night with the bleeders open hoping to get it to fill and nothing has left the reservoir. I tried cracking open the banjo fitting at the cylinder. I removed the reservoir and made sure the 2 small holes are cleared and NOTHING WORKS. I was considering getting a new front master cylinder but I am afraid of having the same problem. I honestly don't get what the trick is. Hopefully its something that I am doing (or not doing) thats one of those, OH well Duh, moments. Here's hoping anyone can help.

    Thanks!
    Justin

    #2
    Have you bled the master cylinder first?

    Take out the banjo bolt, stick your finger over the hole and pull in the lever. Air should squirt out past your finger (you will have to slightly release the pressure on your finger to 'allow' the air out). Release the lever without allowing any air to get back in past your finger. Pump the lever until only brake fluid squirts out (have plenty of rags thrown over the bike). Refit the brake hose and banjo bolt and try bleeding it again.

    Comment


      #3
      And just double checking - do you have two seals on the master cylinder piston? Both seals should have their wider ends facing towards the spring at the end of the piston.

      Comment


        #4
        Where are you? Maybe somebody local can come over and offer some assistance. 8-[


        .
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        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
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        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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          #5
          I'll give that a shot. I've really been trying everything, and for a long period of time. It really is taking forever. and its been driving me crazy. The rear brake went easy. The front system makes me want to rip the brake lines off and hang myself from them.

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            #6
            Pennsylvania, outside Allentown. I got a great guide from BassCliff. His site was a huge help, he had the suzuki shop manual. With the exploded view in there I was able to verify I have the cylinder assembled correctly. If anyone wants to come out, we have some great rides in the area for both easy street and adventure sport rides.

            Justin

            Comment


              #7
              On some bikes you just seem to get too much air in the system to start bleeding. Here's my trick when that happens:

              Disconnect the banjo from the master cylinder and pump the brake a few times with your thumb over the fluid hole (CARE - brake fluid squirts out under pressure as a spray so cover everything).

              Then connect up the top hose, first section only. repeat the same (but pinch the banjo between thumb and finger).

              Then connect the splitter and bottom hoses and repeat.

              Then connect the bottom hoses to the calipers and finish bleeding properly.

              Bleeding a section at a time speeds the whole thing up and you know you're getting somewhere each time a section is full.
              79 GS1000S
              79 GS1000S (another one)
              80 GSX750
              80 GS550
              80 CB650 cafe racer
              75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
              75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Wire Wheel Katman View Post
                Have you bled the master cylinder first?

                Take out the banjo bolt, stick your finger over the hole and pull in the lever. Air should squirt out past your finger (you will have to slightly release the pressure on your finger to 'allow' the air out). Release the lever without allowing any air to get back in past your finger. Pump the lever until only brake fluid squirts out (have plenty of rags thrown over the bike). Refit the brake hose and banjo bolt and try bleeding it again.
                This method worked for me on my Rear master.really well. You have to get fluid in there, and it may even help to PUT a lil bit in there to assist in pushing the air out.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Put a hose on the caliper bleeder and suck on it with your mouth. The vacuum will draw fluid down out of the reservior and prime the master.
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Use a vacuum pump on the caliper nipple. The job will be done in 5 mins.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Take the calipers off but leave them connected to the master cylinder, shim between the pads & hold them above the height of the master then bleed as normal till you get some pressure

                      if this fails tie the lever back over night with the calipers up & the bleeds open & try again in the morning

                      make sure you are bleeding in the corect manner & be patient :-D

                      Comment


                        #12
                        You have had so many replies, but here is what I have done in a similar situation. The front master cylinder is above the pipes and calipers, thus the air bubble or airlock at the top makes it difficult for the M/C to prime itself.

                        Just undo the banjo bolt and fit a piece of clear plastic pipe in the hole in the M/C (make sure it is tight, maybe use an old banjo bolt) Now give it a nice long loop upwards and pointing back into the M/C with the cover off.
                        Pour a some brakefluid in the pipe and let it run to the banjo connection. Pump carerfully and air should start moving through the brake fluid in the pipe. Once all air is gone and each pump pushes out clean brake fluid, connect up your brakeline and bleed in the normal way.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Has anyone tried injecting brake fluid from the caliper up to the master cylinder? I've seen this procedure used on bicycle disc brakes with high success. Basically you get a big syringe full of brake fluid, connect to the open bleeder nipple on the caliper, and swuirt the fluid in from the botom of the system to the top, pushing all the air out as it rises. Leave the master cylinder top off and watch the level rise. Once you're full to the brim you should be done....

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Smokinapankake View Post
                            Has anyone tried injecting brake fluid from the caliper up to the master cylinder? I've seen this procedure used on bicycle disc brakes with high success. Basically you get a big syringe full of brake fluid, connect to the open bleeder nipple on the caliper, and swuirt the fluid in from the botom of the system to the top, pushing all the air out as it rises. Leave the master cylinder top off and watch the level rise. Once you're full to the brim you should be done....

                            I've done fluid changes on 5 different bikes that way and only on one was I unsuccessful.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I'm glad I'm not the only one having trouble bleeding the front brake on my GS. I'm gonnna try some of the tricks and tips here and see if I can get it. Thanks!

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