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I have had this problem always.. pump like crazy and they just wont pump up.. I went to the auto parts store and bought a cheap power bleeder for cars for around 45 bucks. The clear line doesnt fit motorycle bleeder valves as cycle ones seem a bit smaller than cars.. So heres what you do.. get the power bleeder and just buy regular black vacuum hose that will fit snuggly on the bikes bleeders.. assemble and it works every time..
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MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it. -
I had the same problem, I had to draw the break fluid from the bottom up with a vacuum pump. It would not cooperate the other way, and this was with new Russell SS lines, after everything was rebuilt, calipers and master cylinder.'78 GS1000E, Dyna-S ignition, Dyna Green Coils, K&N pods, Delkevic SS 4-1 exhaust, Dynojet Stage 3 jet kit, Russell SS Brake Lines, Progressive suspension, Compu-Fire series Regulator 55402 and Advmonster cree LED headlight conversion.
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I think I might have a similar problem? I have just rebuilt the MC completely, installed new SS brake lines, and opened the calipers and cleaned them. I've bled the system for at least 3 hours, and I get a stream of fluid without air now. I am 99% sure that the two holes in the MC are unclogged and clear. But it seems like the calipers aren't fully "retracting"? I can still push the bike, but it seems like they are rubbing some. I haven't really riden it yet, so is this normal? (I hope so, brakes are so annoying to work with)
Thanks
Kev
P.S. Burk I live in downingtown. It's good to hear someone kinda close is one these forums.Comment
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It's normal for the pads to ever so slightly kiss the rotor but if there is any noticeable drag, something is wrong.Originally posted by coolksprt View PostEd
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-ResurrectionComment
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Get a Mityvac. I believe they are around $20.
I "believe" you can make it also push fluid from the bottom with this tool if you're really in trouble.
It's great for not only brakes, but also for fork fluid. When you do your forks you put in too much fluid and then mark your tube on your Mityvac for 6" and suck away the excess. Very quick and more accurate than trying to match exact ccs on each side.Comment
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Okay, thanks Nessiam. I'm going to keep a close eye out for that. Otherwise, I might need to make a new thread...
KevComment
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Ive seen those bleeders with a check valve in them for bikes, somewhere. I've used then on cars before that were being "difficult".Comment
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