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1980 GS850G-Help with forks

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    1980 GS850G-Help with forks

    I have finally started working on my forks, I've got a leaking seal. I'm not in a huge hurry, so I'm going to complete disassembly & then order parts. I've got a few questions:

    1) I've got the forks off the bike, but I didn't take the fork caps off. I pulled the air valves from the caps so the fork oil would drain, but couldn't figure out a good way to get a wrench on the caps with that bigass Vetter fairing in the way. Is there a way to get the fork caps off without putting the forks back on the bike? Wrench size?

    2) As long as I have everything apart is there anything else I should be checking or replacing? Should I go ahead & get progressive springs? Any recommendations for fork oil?

    3) I'd like to do away with the air suspension. Can I add a spacer to the stock springs, or do I need the progressive springs & a spacer? If I need a spacer, any suggestions on length? I've got that Vetter fairing, I weigh in at 185, & mostly ride solo.

    #2
    I use a large adjustable wrench on the fork caps. They shouldn't be that tight so put the bottom portion in a vice (on flat portion at bolt holes) and hold the fork tube and they should come right out.
    I recommend the Progressive springs.
    The spacer came with my Progressive springs. It's just PC pipe. You set it for the rider. I went with two inches but I'm a big guy who does ride double up sometimes.
    I went with Suzuki recommended fork oil but others have their own methods that also work.

    Plus there is a drain screw at the bottom of the forks.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Plus there is a drain screw at the bottom of the forks.
      LOL...maybe I should have been more specific. I drained the oil from the drain screws, took the air valves off to let air in so the oil would flow. I'll try your suggestion for removing the caps.

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        #4
        Wrench size = 22mm

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          #5
          It might be helpful to use a strap wrench to hold the fork tube if the cap it tight.

          Yes, go for the Progressives. If you ride solo most often, the stock spacer length (Progressive includes one with the springs) or plus 1/2 inch should work. If you ride double often enough, you might add an in or so to the stock length. The best way is to measure it with the 'sag' method. Basically, you want to measure the distance from the lower triple tree to the top of the fork slider with the bike on the centerstand. Get on the bike, take as much weight as you can off your feet to simulate actual load on the bike, rock it a couple of times to settle the suspension, measure the same distance again. You are looking for 1 to 1 1/2 inches of 'sag'. Adjust your spacer length to acheive the correct preload to get that proper sag.

          What fork oil? Progressive recommends 15w. That depends on the rider and bike. You already stated you are not that heavy, but have a Windjammer, so the 15w might be OK. I went with 10w on my Wing and my wife's 850L just to make it more compliant over small bumps like tar strips and manhole covers.

          No problem getting rid of the air suspension. With the Progressives, you will not need to add any air.

          .
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          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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            #6
            Thanks all, I will be tackling the last of the disassembly this morning. Hopefully I'll be ordering springs & seals this afternoon.

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