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Originally posted by herco
Terry, thanks for the advice, it took several hours but its done. Tank, airbox, seat, headlight and fairing removed, I checked and cleaned every ground and connection that I could find. I dismantled the strarter switch and cleaned the contacts inside. (spent an hour chasing the internal spring all over my garage every time it tried to escape) 
I also added a ground from the neg. side of the battery to the solenoid mounting. I used a piece of 1/2 perforated steel ribbon for that. I know I'll probably have to replace that occasionally, but its very simple to do. I then put everything back together and measured my voltage. 12.42v at the solenoid with the engine off. Thats only 1/2 volt more than I had but it worked. My grounds along the electronics mounting/ grounding plate had all been around 11.98 prior to installing the perferated steel. They are all now 12.42v same as across the battery at the time.
I started it, using the start button ansd checked my voltage. 2500rpm=13.6v, while 5000rpm=14.6. I was pleasantly surprised. My lights dont even dim now when I apply the rear brake at idle. They used to slightly.
I then created a red-neck anti-theft device. Using a 20amp toggle switch, I put it in line with the clutch switch wire. (was bypassed) With the switch in the off position, you can't start the bike. I mounted it under the front left edge of the tank and is hardly noticeble. I can switch it off and hope that it deters anyone who defeats the ignition switch.
These things helped me a lot and the bike has immediate respone at the throttle now. As soon as I wax the kitchen floor
(all my wife wanted for our anniversery) I'm taking her out and open her up. (the bike that is.......
Dave W.
Mount Joy, Pa.
PS.. how close are you to the Dallas/ Fort worth area Terry? I was stationed in Witchita Falls for a few months back in 1989. Real good people there.
I also added a ground from the neg. side of the battery to the solenoid mounting. I used a piece of 1/2 perforated steel ribbon for that. I know I'll probably have to replace that occasionally, but its very simple to do. I then put everything back together and measured my voltage. 12.42v at the solenoid with the engine off. Thats only 1/2 volt more than I had but it worked. My grounds along the electronics mounting/ grounding plate had all been around 11.98 prior to installing the perferated steel. They are all now 12.42v same as across the battery at the time.
I started it, using the start button ansd checked my voltage. 2500rpm=13.6v, while 5000rpm=14.6. I was pleasantly surprised. My lights dont even dim now when I apply the rear brake at idle. They used to slightly.
I then created a red-neck anti-theft device. Using a 20amp toggle switch, I put it in line with the clutch switch wire. (was bypassed) With the switch in the off position, you can't start the bike. I mounted it under the front left edge of the tank and is hardly noticeble. I can switch it off and hope that it deters anyone who defeats the ignition switch.
These things helped me a lot and the bike has immediate respone at the throttle now. As soon as I wax the kitchen floor
(all my wife wanted for our anniversery) I'm taking her out and open her up. (the bike that is.......Dave W.
Mount Joy, Pa.
PS.. how close are you to the Dallas/ Fort worth area Terry? I was stationed in Witchita Falls for a few months back in 1989. Real good people there.
I'm about 400 miles South of Dallas. On the Texas Gulf coast about midway between the Mexico and Louisiana borders.
Terry
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