OK, now for the run-down

[psyguy]

This right here it me problem. I bet the bolt and the banjo don't line up. They are new banjos but old bolts. I will have to find out where the hole in the bolt is when tight. Then position my banjo to that specific destination. I bet that's it. I wasn't lining them up earlier. I just put them on and tightened them wherever, paying no mind to their positioning.

do the banjos have a grove all round in the middle (inside) or just a hole?

[KRISTI'SGS550]

no groove just a hole. Maybe I should get some with grooves. Then I wouldn't have to worry about alignment.

[KRISTI'SGS550]

well, actually there is sort of a groove, but only on the side of the bolt towards the head. I am not sure if that is considered a groove or not?

[psyguy]

well, actually there is sort of a groove, but only on the side of the bolt towards the head. I am not sure if that is considered a groove or not?

that groove is suposed to let the fluid through to the hose, regardless of where the bolt hole is
however, the bolt hole and the banjo groove have to align so check that that is the case!

[KRISTI'SGS550]

The banjo is grooved and the brake fluid can get in the bolt from anywhere. I just took it apart and looked at it. When I put my thumb over the hole in the master cylinder and pump the handle pressure builds up. When I remove my thumb the liquid squirts out under the pressure. If I continue to pump the handle the liquid doesn't squirt, but rather the air that comes out is wet. I think there should be more pressure from the master cylinder and therefore I am going to order a rebuild kit and go from there. Unless there are any other suggestions. Also the pistons on the calipers are really hard to move. There isn't any gunk or rust and the pistons themselves are spotless. I think I need to replace the dust shield and the O-rings in the ports so these will move more freely. So until I get this or know more about these darn brakes I will be taking a break from the brakes. Sorry about the pun I just couldn't help it.

Thanks for all the help and advice,

Cory

[KRISTI'SGS550]

update

Since I have to wait until payday to get some supplies of the brakes, carbs and petcock projects. I decided to do some stuff around the house I don't need any money for. The tank on the CB is pretty darn rusted so I decided I would try the electrolysis and see if I could get the bulk of that rust out, if not all of it.

The link has been posted on here before, but just in case anyone wants it again, here it is, http://650rider.com/Content/pid=6.html . I hope this works for me. I will post pictures when I am done. I would be happy if half hte rust is gone.

Other than rust in the tank, that is about it for the bikes. The carbs have been soaking and I will post some awesome pictures of clean carbs pretty soon.

Well, that is all for now. Give me a holler and let me know what's going on and if you have any help or suggestions for me.

Thanks all,

Cory

[TheCafeKid]

Im going to be using the same electrolosis method for my GS tanks as well. Just a bit of spotty, powdery rust in both, so hopefully, this will take care of it.

[KRISTI'SGS550]

The setup seems pretty simple. I am looking forward to the results. I have had it connected for about a half hour now, my charger is showing an error. I wonder if it is still producing electricity or if it shuts off when there is an error and why the error is occurring? I checked to make sure the anode wasn't touching metal and I don't think it is. I put a cork from a wine bottle on it in the tank to keep it up off the metal rail in the middle.

Any suggestions?

Cory

[TheCafeKid]

I dunno bro, i have never done this myself, and im wondering if my trickle charger will work..

[Nessism]

I dunno bro, i have never done this myself, and im wondering if my trickle charger will work..

I think you need a couple of amps for the electrolysis to work effectively. Check this video for some neat info. http://www.metacafe.com/watch/456478/rust_removal_tip/

[psyguy]

Check this video for some neat info. http://www.metacafe.com/watch/456478/rust_removal_tip/

i'm interested if this process would do any damage to the tank paint. if not, it seems like a good idea to just submerse the whole tank in a large plastic container (like the one in the video).

[KRISTI'SGS550]

I think the one thing I would worry about is the paint job flaking off if the whole tank was submerged in water. I read a little about the process and it sounds like it gets rid of everything that is not metal. But then again it says chrome stays, so I am not sure. Just my opinion. What do you think?

[Nessism]

Never tried the electrolysis method but I've read that it works best when you have line of sight between the rusted surface and the cathode (or is it the anode?). You may have to move the piece of sacrificial metal around to facilitate this line of site and get all the areas - it doesn't go around corners real well, thus I'm not sure how well it would work to just try to submerge the entire tank.

[KRISTI'SGS550]

I was thinking about taking my exhausts off the bikes and putting them in a big rubbermaid container for electrolysis for a couple days and see what that will do. I will have to tear them down a little and probably dip one section at a time, they aren't very rusty at all, but I thought it could be a good way to see how the tub version works.

Cory

Nessism, I am not sure if you were joking but I think it's an anode, not a cathode.

[KRISTI'SGS550]

Questions from my day.

I got a lot done on the bike today, but at the same time not much done. I finished up the carb dipping, and started dipping the jets etc. I will let each set sit overnight and put the next set in. I should be completely done in four days and the carbs will be ready for new O-rings and bowl gaskets.

One question about the carbs 3 out of 4 of my pilot jets are toast, should I only replace the 3, or just go ahead and replace the 4th as well?

Today I also pulled my cam chain tensioner and cleaned it and reset it. I don't think it was properly installed by the PO because it wasn't moving at all. I think he has the screw and bolts tightened all the way therefore not letting the setup move at all. So I pulled it, cleaned a lot of crud off of it and reinstalled it properly so it will hopefully work when I start the bike.

I also tore into the head cover so I could measure the valve clearance but I still don't get exactly what I am measuring. All of my feeler gauges fit between the tappet and the shaft. I am not sure where I am supposed to be measuring.

Can anyone help me figure out where exactly and how exactly I am supposed to measure the valve clearance?

I did a little cleaning and replaced the sparkplugs as well. So that was my day. let me know if you can help me with any or my questions.

Thanks all in advance

Cory