OK, now for the run-down

[BassCliff]

Let me repeat myself

Mr. KRISTI'SGS550,

Just in case you missed this information in the "welcome" post, I'll post it here too. Note that some of this may state "GS850" but most of this is applicable to all GS bikes. Valve adjustment, clean carbs, new petcock, new intake boots and O-rings are almost always mandatory to get these classic bikes running the way they should.

***********<Quoted from Mr. bwringer>************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:

http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.

And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com

Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:

http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

*************<End Quote>*************
**********<Quote Mr. bwringer>**********
GS850 Basics:

Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting.

It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years.

It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile o-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)

Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)

Valve clearances (more important than most people think)

Carb/airbox boots

Airbox sealing

Air filter sealing

Petcock (install a NEW one)

On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)

On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.

Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
**********<End Quote>**********
***********<Quoted from Mr. bwringer>***************
Parts and Accessories:

http://denniskirk.com
Put in your bike model and see what they have.

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.

http://oldbikebarn.com seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.

OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

http://www.babbittsonline.com/

Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.

http://bikebandit.com
Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.

http://flatoutmotorcycles.com
Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.

http://alpha-sports.com
Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc.:
http://mcmaster.com
Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.

http://motorcycleseatcovers.com
Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.

http://newenough.com
You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************

Here are a few extra links:

Cycle-Re-Cycle Part 2

http://crc2onlinecatalog.com/

The ever popular Z1 Enterprises
http://www.z1enterprises.com

The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com

Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com

Lots of good info/pictures

http://www.suzukicycles.org

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[KRISTI'SGS550]

basscliff,
thank you again for the information. i browsed through it in the other post of mine, and again with this one. I have my shopping list and to-do list ready to go mostly because of the information on this specific welcome page, but also from the helpful hints of fellow forum members.

Thanks again for the greeting page it is going to be real handy and to all other members for your help as well!

Cory

[KRISTI'SGS550]

as long as all the rubber is as soft as it should be, you should have no problems, but do expect it to be time consuming.
i think you DO want to take the airbox off, makes the carb removal/replacement easier (IMHO)
you want to inspect the airbox anyway

My manual doesn't tell me how to take the airbox off. Anyone know? 1981 GS550 L.

[8trackmind]

You have to pull the carbs to get it off. So thats moot.

[Nessism]

Take the screws out on both sides of the airbox and slide it back as much as possible - about an inch or so. This will give you a little room to take the carbs off. The airbox can be removed but it's a pain - you have to split into two pieces.

Regarding the rebuild process, GSR wisdom is to order an O-ring kit from Robert and intake boot O-rings from the dealer since cycleorings.com does not sell them for 550's (or at least they didn't last time I checked). Floatbowl gaskets are a good idea and you should be able to reuse the stock jets unless they are damaged in some way.

Good luck.

[KRISTI'SGS550]

I am confused

if I have to take the carbs off to get the airbox out, how would that help me in removing and reinstalling the carbs? Looking at my bike and the Clymer manual all I can do is loosen the box and move it back about an inch giving me a little more room to wiggle the carbs in and out. What about taking off the intake boots and installing them after the carbs are mounted to the air box? Then connect the throttle lines last?

[Steve]

The intake boots (airbox side of the carbs) need to fit in a particular place, and are hard to get there unless you have free access. That means no carbs in the way. Usually, the easiest way is to get all the boots into place, place the airbox in the general area, then slide it back as far as you can. On some bikes, it helps to also loosen the battery box so you can slide the airbox back just a bit. Even if it only allows another half an inch, that might be what it takes.

On the 650 and 850s that I have worked on, the throttle cables were easier to work with when the carbs were loose from the intake boots, so the order would be: loosen airbox (and battery box, if needed), slide it back. Loosen clamps on intake boots (engine side), slide the carbs out of the boots, remove the cables, slide the carbs out the side. Installation is, of course, just the reverse.

.

[KRISTI'SGS550]

Steve,
thank you for the semi-visual illustration (you know what I mean). It does help out alot to visualize first. I think the steps you mentioned are for me the easiest and fastest way to get the carbs out. It is getting them back in what I fear. I just have to remember to take my time and be patient and I will be able to do it. I haven't tried to attached the cables while the carbs were loose yet. I will try that this time. Thanks for the suggestions.

Cory

[KRISTI'SGS550]

Take the screws out on both sides of the airbox and slide it back as much as possible - about an inch or so. This will give you a little room to take the carbs off. The airbox can be removed but it's a pain - you have to split into two pieces.

Regarding the rebuild process, GSR wisdom is to order an O-ring kit from Robert and intake boot O-rings from the dealer since cycleorings.com does not sell them for 550's (or at least they didn't last time I checked). Floatbowl gaskets are a good idea and you should be able to reuse the stock jets unless they are damaged in some way.

Good luck.

09280-32006 (32mm) for '79 and older 750 & larger
09280-38004 (38mm) for most '80 and later bikes.
Usually available at your dealership, as well as here.

77-79 750's, 850's and 1000's use 32mm o-rings and 16mm screws.
79 425's use 40mm O-rings and oddball 6x35 screws, which I don't carry. **
77-79 550's use 28mm O-rings (which I don't carry) and 16mm screws.
80 & 81 1100E and 750's don't use intake O-rings or screws (so you're off the hook!)
80 & 81 1000's use 40mm O-rings and 16mm screws. **
80 and later 850's use 38mm O-rings and 20mm screws.
81-83 650's use 38mm O-rings and 16mm screws.
80-82 550's " "
80-82 450E's use 40mm O-rings and 20mm screws.
82 & 83 1100's (2-valve) use 38mm O-rings and 16mm screws.
83-86 550's use a siamesed setup; they take 30mm O-rings, five 20mm screws and one 16mm screw. (Email me).
85 700 uses 38mm O-rings and 20mm screws.

This is from Robert's site doesn't it say the 80-82 550's are the same screws and O-ring as the 81-83 650's, or am I reading this wrong?

[Nessism]

I think you have that right. It's the early 550 intake O-rings that he does not carry.

[KRISTI'SGS550]

That is what I thought. I figured he quotation marks meant it was the same as the line above, just saving himself some typing time. But I wanted to make sure others saw it as that.

Cory

[themess]

One other comment. Unless it's really warm, a properly tuned GS will need the choke to start. Restated, if it starts without the choke, it is either already warmed up, or it needs tuning. Badly.

[KRISTI'SGS550]

themess,
when my bike was running it needed the choke to start up everytime, warm or not. Now it isn't running at all, even with the choke. That is why I am tearing it apart and fixing, cleaning and adjusting to my hearts content.

Thanks for the info.

Cory

[KRISTI'SGS550]

Berrymans was suggested to soak the carb parts in, any other suggestions for cleaning carb parts. What about Seafoam would that do anything if parts were soaked in it for a while?

[TheCafeKid]

Ive run Seafoam in my tank to run thru the carbs, but i dunno bout its parts soaking properties. Im sure it wouldnt hurt them, but im not sure that its as effective as Berrymans or similar products. This may have been mentioned, possibly even by me, but a word of caution with Berrymans. Its some heavy duty stuff, and kinda stinky. So obviously using it in a ventilated area would be wise. Also, it will destroy rubber, and isnt real nice to plastic either, so DO remove the carb parts that arent metal before soaking them. This includes the orings (which you should likely replace anyway) and the choke clips ( i dunno if your carbs have those or not, but mine did, and i didnt, and they became brittle and broke. Live and learn.) Also, be sure to flush the Berrymans out of the carbs with water and air, as after it evaporates or whatever, it turns into a sticky film that will likely leave your jets clogged worse than before. Some have said the dip will turn thier carb boddies black, and they cant get it off. It did indeed turn mine black, but a lil washing with water and scruby scruby with an old toothbrush took care of that.