any problems with 10.9 metric bolts in the exhaust

[spawningvat]

Hello Everyone:

So I'm going to be pulling the head off my 79 gs550e. I successfully removed all but one of the exhaust bolts. I found harder replacement bolts with 10.9 stamped on the top, similar in strength to a grade 8 SAE bolt. Will I have any problems using these rather than softer steel ones? Any problems concerning heat, expansion, or stretching? I really just don't want to deal with anymore broken bolts, nor do i want to deal with stripped threads in the head.

All ideas are welcome. Thanks in advance. And yes, I already searched for tips to remove that last broken bolt: penetrating oil, heat, visegrips, welded nut, NO easy-outs.

/s/ Sean

[trippivot]

I use anti seize ALWAYS on those bolts
BTW hardened bolts will be great!!


I have allen type at lower grade than than you intend to use. they are fine

do not over torque!!! it does not need to be as tight as you think or whoever put the problems in your cyl. head thought.

15~18 ft/lbs max

I'd rather re-tighten a loose bolt than machine remove a crammmed one

smashed/old ex gaskets will force you to try to tighten the pipe up and bottom out the bolts,possibly while the pipe is still loose. !beware of this!
know the depth!!

[p_s]

15~18 ft/lbs max

Are you sure that's right? Sounds high to me but I don't have a manual with me. I vaguely remember it being quite a bit less.

[tkent02]

Why not use studs?
Save the wear and tear on the aluminum threads.

[psyguy]

i use allen head stainless bolts with anti seize, no probs

[mriddle]

I have wondered the same thing..

Why not use studs?
Save the wear and tear on the aluminum threads.

[spawningvat]

Great feedback

Thanks everyone! Thats what I'm talking about!

I was thinking about studs, but the blatant truth is that I am going to repair this bike as easily as possible. Lowes readily sells a small selection of metric bolts, and I'm going to utilize this. The bike is good yes, but its seen better days and i'm walking the thin line over a money pit as we speak. I can always switch over to studs at a later date, if I come across a great deal.

While I'm thinking about it, is there any chance that I could reuse the head gasket? Its probably original.

/s/ Sean

[catbed]

you dont want to re-use a headgasket because of the chance of leaking. also, the new ones are MLS, as i found out, or Multi-Layer Steel. they are better than the old ones anyway.

[bwringer]

i use allen head stainless bolts with anti seize, no probs

Me too. Stainless allens with looooooootttts of anti-sieze. And they look really cool, too.

I tighten them by hand with a t-handle allen wrench -- not much chance of over-torquing that way.

About twice a year, I crack them loose and re-torque just to be sure they still move, and I re-apply anti-seize every year or two if I haven't removed the exhaust for some other reason in the meantime.

You really should install new exhaust gaskets when you remove/replace the exhaust. You might get away with it once or twice, but eventually they won't seal and it'll get noisy and run funny.

It's also worthwhile to replace the slip joint exhaust gaskets underneath when they get haggard. These will cause popping, strange noises, and sub-optimal running when they leak as well.

[derwood]

no problems with SS allen bolts 65000 km, I tighten by hand and I have to remove the pipe to change the filter

[bwringer]

One more thing... you won't find the hardware you need at Lowe's or any of the other "big box" stores.

Any REAL hardware store, such as Ace or DoItBest, will have the stainless steel allen head goodies you seek.

Or you can order 'em by the box from McMaster-Carr: http://mcmaster.com or individually from Bolt Depot: http://boltdepot.com

[Tarbash 27]

studs are the way to go, I had 3 broken bolts, I was able to only helicoil 2. So now I have 7 studs and nuts holding on my exhaust.