New GS700E owner !

[catbed]

i had the same problems, do you let the bike warm up before you get on the throttle. especially with this crazy weather we've been getting, you need to let it warm up. might be running too lean. the hot pipes would also be explained by a lean condition. also, head over to z1 and get some exhaust gaskets so you have them ready when you change those bolts.

[Gargoyle081]

Well not that I would ever complain about the bike being loud, but Im in a pretty controlled environment(in a garage with the bike backed up to the open door) Things are just oo inconsistent for me to wrap my brain around being new to bike repair.....and carbs. Today I started it again and it ran at about a grand for 5 mins or so and after I shut her down it wouldnt start again....hence my frusteration. With so many factors,inconsistant starts, and limited knowledge Im not sure what to do or where to start a process of illimination....I REALLY dont want to take the bike to a mechanic....

[Gargoyle081]

Anyone?...[-o<

[t3rmin]

If you're smelling fuel in the air filter area you likely have a float stuck and it's overflowing a bit.

If two pipes are hot and two are cold it's almost certainly either out of sync or the idle mixture screws are too lean on #1 and #2 (lean == hot). My guess would be sync, since you said all the idle mixture screws are equal. Sync problems are magnified the smaller the throttle opening, so at idle a bad sync can result in a cold cylinder(s) easily.

Of course that would be my answer barring exhaust leaks. If you have exhaust leaks (broken bolts) on #3 and #4, all bets are off.

[Gargoyle081]

Well first off thank you guys for not giving up on me....T3rmin do you think I should focus some time on fixing the exhaust leaks before working with the carbs again? Or should I try to sync the carbs? I was thinking the exhaust leaks may be letting the motor scavenge cold air....is that possible?

[Junkie]

Hmm

The cylinders that have cool exhaust aren't on the same coil, so that doesn't seem to be the issue. If it was both centers or both ends that were cool, it would be a possibility.


The exhaust leaks could certainly result in tuning issues. I'd fix them before doing much else.

As far as carb syncs go, I would do a bench sync for now - using a piece of safety wire, make sure they all close at the same time. That should be enough for it to run pretty well.

[Gargoyle081]

I'll work on getting these two snapped off bolts out today since Im done work for the day.....I may be able to get the new exhaust gaskets from the local suzuki dealer. They have been able to get me the parts Ive needed so far in just a day or two.I paid attention when I had the carbs off and they have got to already be REALLY close to sync'd up if they are off....you cannot tell by eye thats for sure. I would twist the adjustment until they looked completely closed and then compare them to one another and they seem to all be closed at the same time.Obviously not a dead on way to tune but like to said it should be close enough for a starting point. I will let you guy know how it goes....

[t3rmin]

At idle, sync can be off enough to completely choke a cylinder without any indication to the naked eye. Bench sync is only useful to get it started so you can do a vacuum sync. Seriously, the sync adjustment is that sensitive.

But yeah, I'd fix the exhaust first. Why worry about unknown problems when you have one that's known?

[rapidray]

Also, & no one has mentioned this, the carb sync IS affected by the valve adjustment. Sync the carbs BEFORE you do anything else & let us know how it runs after that. The carbs being out of sync can, & will, make it rev weirdly. Ray.

[Gargoyle081]

I sure like gettin on here and finding more replies.....it means fixin' to learn something. Thanks guys. I gotta get into a better habit of searching the site for a long time before I do ANYTHING. I was already a part of the site group "help me with my carbs" (a LARGE group indeed)...and then the exhaust bolt horror stories...which Im now dealing with too. Before anyone jumps me I DID NOT try with an easy out...but I did snap more bolts. I have been spraying the bolts with PB blaster for the last 3 nights but I guess to no effect. Im going to drill them out so what advice regarding DEPTH do you guys have?? They sheared off with nothing to grab with vise grips etc....Im gonna drill a small hole first of course and then step up a few to get it done. Initially I will try to save the threads, but if I am not precise enough and have to completely drill out and re-tap I will.I went to suzuki and picked up new (all 4) exhaust gaskets and after this headache I will follow those who have gone before me and switch to an allen key bolt.....

[t3rmin]

Gosh, what a nightmare. I hate stuck bolts. If you got any of them out at all you could use that for a depth guide.

[Gargoyle081]

Errr...well I WISH I had one bolt to show for my efforts....Im hoping not to create any further problems workin the drill tonight or tomorrow morning. For added measure there will be no alcohol involved in the procedure as it will probably effect my performance........and proper pronunciation of certain cuss words, that I may need at my disposal at any given moment

[t3rmin]

Sounds counter-intuitive, but try tightening them slightly before loosening them. Try heat. You're already trying penetrating oil (use PB-Blaster brand). I feel like sharp hits on the wrench, rather than slow steady pressure works better.

For the ones broken off flush it'll probably be a drill & tap.

[catbed]

as for the depth thing, you can stick a piece of welding wire are coat hanger in the other exhaust holes and see how far they go in. if you have a drilll with a depth gauge, use it. if you dont, go in little by little.

also, sync your carbs. i need to sync mine and i think that will fix a cylinder not firing because the valve is closed too much.(i hope) i bench synced it but i dont trust myself.

[slugsride]

Lots of great advice on this thread! On the exhaust bolts, use the largest ez-out you are comfortable drilling a hole for. A small one WILL snap, then you'll have several hours work with the Dremel tool grinding it out (don't ask me how I know). Get some good socket head bolts and some anti-seize and replace them all. Strongly recommend checking the valve clearance before you make any carb adjustments. The K&N filter has worked fine for me for many years (but I have stock jetting), just don't over oil it!! Good luck, This bike IS worth the trouble!\\/