New GS700E owner !

[catbed]

get a K&N air filter. i believe the part number is SU-1200. good quality and last pretty much forever.

[Gargoyle081]

Thank you Catbed, do I need a particular filter for the jets I have in the bike?...Stock is 122...mine are 125......By the way I notice you are local...I work out that way.

[TheCafeKid]

Going to 125 mains is a good move on the 700. Very lean as stock. I also changed to a UNI filter at the same time. Noticeable increase in gas mileage and smoother power curve.

Don't listen to the anti-filter contingent. ;-) A fuel filter is cheap insurance and they flow more than enough. If you have any doubts, hook the filter to an auxiliary tank or funnel or something and drain into a can while observing the flow rate. Then take the filter off and drain without it. Not much of a difference. Then think about how long you can drive around on one tankful of gas. The motor just sips the gas, and unless you've managed to find some kind of funky filter, the filter will flow way more than required. I use universal Fram filters from the local auto parts store.

Indeed. As long as its a fairly small filter, and you keep it in line (up and down with the fuel hose) you shouldnt have any problem. I was told mine would cause a problem...pulled it off, and then later when i cleaned the carbs, guess what i found in my floatbowls? Tank rust...booo! It will be going back on, especially with a tank that is questionable. It never seemed to starve prior when running it, so i dunno what all the hubbub is about with not running them.

[catbed]

Thank you Catbed, do I need a particular filter for the jets I have in the bike?...Stock is 122...mine are 125......By the way I notice you are local...I work out that way.

no, unless you want pods (individual filters). the part number i gave you fits in the airbox.

my 850 had the same symptoms as yours, just make sure your carb pilot passages are clean and make sure you adjusted your mixture screws, that helped a lot for me.

whoopsie daises, wrong air filter. here's the one you want. part number SU-7503

http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=SU-7503

i know you can get them at the pep boys in cinnaminson, probably elsewhere too.

[kingofvenus]

There are screws that adjust the amount of fuel flow in the idle circuit. They are on the engine side of the float bowls, they have plugs covering them when new. Did you remove those when you were cleaning the carbs?

Ask for help.... and then not answer a question from someone trying to help you?

[Gargoyle081]

Whoa... sorry boss. I didnt intend to offend you but I have a ton of info going back and forth on here.....I did go out and take a look at the bike after reading your post earlier and then got consumed by alot of other responses and possible solutions... The only screws I saw in the location that you described are phillips head screws that screw into the motor.They have no caps on them but appear to have at one time. There is one screw per cyl. it seems. Are these the ones you meant? If so I did not move these screws at all for any reason.....Dont mistake me as ungrateful for forgetting to answer your question. Im just trying to soak up everything that everyone is saying and trying to learn

[catbed]

here's what the screw looks like:



make sure there is no cap on that. if so, drill the hole out a little bigger and screw in a screw and pull it out. lightly seat it by turning it to the right and then back it out 2 turns. get the bike running and try to let it idle. if it does, keep turning all four screws out until the RPMs stop rising, then turn it in 1/8 to a 1/4 turn.

another way to do it is to get a colortune, tune your carbs, then come over my house and tune mine.:shock::-D

[Gargoyle081]

There are in fact plugs in those holes on my bike.....I am gonna pull the carbs off again tomorrow after work...I'll grab the air filter on my way home as well. I have been reading and I remember putting the intake boots on with the old o-rings. I ordered the o-rings, and new bolts earlier today as suggested in the links several posts back....I didnt like those phillips heads anyways...and it will make me feel better knowing I replaced the simple inexpensive things that make a difference. I should have my parts by thurs. so just in time for a good friday night in the garage putting it all back together. Does anyone here have an easier way of getting the carbs back between the intake boots and the airbox boots?..I mean it probly took me an hour to wrestle that thing back in there last time,getting all the boots on well enough to seal everything up tight...

[catbed]

easiest way is to take the airbox off. i dont know if your airbox is like mine, not likely, but if you can loosen the bolts and tilt it back might be easier.

and if you go to pepboys for the filter, odds are they are going to have to special order it. wont take long though, couple days at most.

[slowride]

I would agree with catbed. If you can remove the airbox, that will make it real easy to remove the carbs to install your intake boots with the new o-rings, plus just giving you more room to work.

Ed

[Nessism]

The only way to make these GS bikes run properly is with surgically clean carbs. The pilot jet circuit is particularly sensitive to debris because the jet orifice is killer small - did you pull them out and check to make sure they are open?

Most newbies don't go far enough in terms of carb clean up and wind up pulling the carbs multipul times until they "learn" the hard way that they should just bite the bullet and do the job properly. Key thing is to un-gang the carbs, soak in dip unless they are near perfect to begin with, and replace all the various O-rings (order a kit from cycleorings.com). There is no need to replace jets unless they are damaged in some way. Just clean everything and reassemble with new O-rings.

And in support of what others have stated, don't even attempt to tune the bike unless you have a proper air filter installed and properly sealed carb boots.

Good luck.

[Nessism]

If you're still having issues then you need to clean the carbs again. Sometimes it takes 3 or even 4 cleanings to sort things out in the carbs especially if they have been sitting for any length of time.

Cheers,
Spyug

Forgive me Spyug but this comment highlighted above really caught my eye.

The reason people wind up pulling the carbs more than once is because they are afraid to pull them apart completely the first time...thus they short cut the cleaning process...which winds up being a long cut in the end.

[t3rmin]

Don't get the K&N filter. Different flow. The UNI filter with the 125 jets is a proven combo. Cheaper, too.

[Gargoyle081]

Ok everyone...just read up on the new posts. I was off early today and on the way home I did stop and order my filter...I did order the K&N part suggested. Perhaps I will regret that but I certainly hope not....Carbs are off with all the guts removed, but as stated above Im scared to go ahead and ungang them...So far I have been flying by the seat of my pants on this carb stuff.This is the 2nd time I have had them off, this time they looked very clean. I cleaned everything again anyways...Tomorrow or friday Im gonna have my filter and Intake boot O-rings and I will give everything a once over and put them back together. I understand that I am taking a shortcut by not unganging the carbs and doing the dip process, but to be honest right now I just lack the confidence. Aside from unganging the carbs I followed the process for cleaning the carbs listed here on the site...

[t3rmin]

I never dip anymore. It's generally a waste of time. You can get a set of carbs spic-n-span with spray carb cleaner and a wire for poking out the pilot holes. You do need to remove the jets and floats and such, though. Spray carb cleaner forcefully in every orifice and make sure it squirts out the other side like it should.