Tubeless Valve Stems

[Nessism]

Tubeless valve stem on my '82 850 is leaking so decided to install some new ones. Bought a bolt on valve stem from NAPA, reamed the hole in the rim to .453", but the threaded portion is too short to bolt down since the aluminum is quite thick on the wheel.:shock:

Went looking for some different valve stems but can't find anything suitable. The rubber ones available at the generic auto part stores seem to be designed for thin steel wheels.

EDIT: Think I answered my own question. Need to find a TR 416 valve stem - only one with a longer threaded portion than the NAPA version. Going to hit some tire stores in the morning and see if they will sell me a couple.


Ed

[chef1366]

I think I have some. Let me take a look.

[Joe Nardy]

Ed,

I have always been able to use metal valve stems from the auto parts store. On all the GS wheels we've done at my house we also grind the area around the valve stem flat for a better seal. A dremel tool with a fiber cutting disk works well for this. This will also allow the stem to protrude farther through the rim so the stems you have might work. I've used rubber valve stems from the auto parts store with no problems. Try to get the shortest valve stems you can find. This makes filling the tires much easier.

Thanks,
Joe

[jknappsax]

Farter protrusion?

I think we all want to avoid that!

[Nessism]

Found a TR416 valve stem with a longer threaded portion - long enough to take into account the thickness of the rim. Not the easiest to find but works great.

[Joe Nardy]

I think we all want to avoid that!

OOPS! That has been edited.........................

[Planecrazy]

Found a TR416 valve stem with a longer threaded portion - long enough to take into account the thickness of the rim. Not the easiest to find but works great.

Did you need to do any grinding inside the rim to flatten the contact area (where the nut tightens down)? On the wheels we did at Joe's place the main reason for the grinding wasn't so much for the thickness (as I recall) but because we were concerned that the inner contact area wouldn't seal properly because it was rounded and there would be uneven pressure from the flat nut. With stock inner tubes that of course wasn't an issue, and with "press-in" rubber valve stems the inner "nub" would generally conform to the curve, but with the metal bolt on types it looked like leakage was a distinct possibility ... so we ground it flat and it has always worked perfectly on every wheel we've done (I've done at least two or three).

Regards,

[Nessism]

Did you need to do any grinding inside the rim to flatten the contact area (where the nut tightens down)? On the wheels we did at Joe's place the main reason for the grinding wasn't so much for the thickness (as I recall) but because we were concerned that the inner contact area wouldn't seal properly because it was rounded and there would be uneven pressure from the flat nut. With stock inner tubes that of course wasn't an issue, and with "press-in" rubber valve stems the inner "nub" would generally conform to the curve, but with the metal bolt on types it looked like leakage was a distinct possibility ... so we ground it flat and it has always worked perfectly on every wheel we've done (I've done at least two or three).

Regards,

The '82 wheels are designed for tubeless and came with clamp-on valve stems; the wheel has a suitable surface to mount the stem without grinding. Would have gone with some snap-in stems (rubber type) but the only ones I could find looked to me like they are for thin steel wheels - which was confirmed after finding the following blurb on the web: "TR416 clamp-in valve: This type of valve must be used when using a metal extension and when the rim thickness is greater than .205” (5.2mm)." http://www.techtirerepairs.com/tech_...0Issue%202.pdf