new fork springs

[Johnny K]

I have ordered a new set of progressive shocks from classic cycle parts. I am now deciding to replace the fork springs as well. I am going with a set of progressive fork springs probably from bike bandit. I checked my seals and they are not cracked nor leak. I have an 82' 850GZ. I weigh about 220lbs. I have never replaced the fork springs before and am just wondering if I need to replace anything else. Thanks guys.

[Nessism]

Fork oil of course. 15W is popular.

[Johnny K]

Yup Nessism. Yup, got that on my list. How about the seals though? I did check them and they were not cracked, but will I disturb them when changing the fork springs?

[rphillips]

Probably my ignorance, but why would changing the springs affect the seals???

[Johnny K]

Great question rphillips. That is exactly why i am asking because I have never changed the springs before.

[robertob]

They won't affect the seals.

You may find that the progressives are still too soft. I had to add 20mm spacers to get the preload about right.

You can change the seals later without disturbing the springs if you choose. There is no overlapping work, except possibly for the oil change part of it. You don't have to change oil to do the springs, but you do have to change it when you do seals.

[trdhrdr007]

I just got through replacing springs & fork seals on my 82 GS850G. I had to pull the forks off, & completely apart, to replace the seals. You won't need to take the forks apart just to replace the springs, so you won't disturb the seals. You might be able to pull the handlebars, then the fork caps & replace the springs with the forks still on the bike. You would need to support the bike under the engine to get all weight off the front tire.

[bwringer]

I just got through replacing springs & fork seals on my 82 GS850G. I had to pull the forks off, & completely apart, to replace the seals. You won't need to take the forks apart just to replace the springs, so you won't disturb the seals. You might be able to pull the handlebars, then the fork caps & replace the springs with the forks still on the bike. You would need to support the bike under the engine to get all weight off the front tire.

Yup, that's all pretty much how it goes. Replacing the springs is pretty easy -- you only need to support the front end and remove the fork caps.

Replacing the fork seals involves disassembling the forks entirely. This isn't nearly as hard as it sounds, though.

GS fork seals are pretty durable. If yours are still OK, don't worry about them and just replace the fork springs and oil. You'll LOVE the difference.

The fork springs will come with a chart that shows you how long you should make your spacers, and even a hunk of PVC pipe to make your spacers with. You may need to adjust this length up or down depending on your weight.

Finally, when you drain and replace the fork oil, do NOT just dump in the amount in the manual and button it up -- this will be far too much oil, since it's impossible to drain all the oil via the drain screws.

What's important is the fork oil LEVEL. The level of the fork oil must be exactly the same in both legs. The manual has a diagram of a simple fork oil level setting tool. You put in a little too much oil, then slurp out the excess with the tool so it's the same in both fork legs.

I made my fork oil level tool from a large syringe intended for measuring 2-stroke oil, a coat hanger, a bit of vinyl tubing, and a few zip ties.