What is the valve adj proceedure on GS1000

[intemadater]

Hi, i have a GS1000 not schure what year but it does have dual overhead cams and seems to be missfireing on one cylinder. it will pop at any rpm but mostly at idle and while letting off the gas. i think the problem lies in cyl #1 (far left) cause i can touch the headder and it is not as hot as the others. I have checked the compression but will have to do again cause i didnt write it down and this engine has not run for awhile and was going to try running it for awhile then test again. the cyl seems to miss and pop more at idle then as rpm increases it seems to pick up that cyl

[psyguy]

valve adjustment

hi there and welcome

Valve adjustment

Exhaust valves (front)
Rotate the crankshaft so the outer cylinder's (#1) cam lobe is pointing FORWARD, the inner lobe (#2) will be pointing UP. Check the clearance of both valves.
Then rotate the crank 180 degrees so the outer cylinder on the other side of the engine (#4) is pointing FORWARD and the inner one (#3) is pointing UP. Again, check the clearance of both valves.
Intake valves (back)
Rotate the crankshaft so the outer cylinder's (#1) cam lobe is pointing UP, the inner lobe (#2) will be pointing BACK. Check the clearance of both valves.
Then rotate the crank 180 degrees so the outer cylinder on the other side of the engine (#4) is pointing UP and the inner one (#3) is pointing BACK. Again, check the clearance of both valves.

The idea is that both valves measured by this method are untensioned which makes the clearance measurement more consistent than if the cam lobe next to the measured valve is being depressed.

[psyguy]

the cyl seems to miss and pop more at idle then as rpm increases it seems to pick up that cyl

what are the carbs like? may be that the pilot circuit in that carb is partially blocked

[BassCliff]

Hey howdy hey!

Mr. intemadater,

Do you have an 8-valve motor or a 16-valve motor? The procedures are different. Your issue may also be with carburetor tuning. But you are correct in wanting to set the valve clearances first before you look into carb tweaking. There is a valve clearance pictorial guide and a GS1000 manual on my little BikeCliff website. Help yourself to all the information that's there. There are also lots of good folk here with lots more experience than I have. They can make sure you get all the information you need. Now, here's my amazing technicolor, totally outrageous, totally verbose mega-welcome! \\/

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)!
Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr.

And here are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.

***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:

http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:

http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:

http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

***********************************
Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Here are some extra links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/

http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php

http://www.electrosport.com/

The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

[psyguy]

Do you have an 8-valve motor or a 16-valve motor?

was there ever a 16v thou?!

[BassCliff]

What's a couple of valves among friends?

was there ever a 16v thou?!

There was a GS1000S in '82-'83 that had a 16-valve motor. But that was a "Katana". You are correct in that the rest were 8-valve.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[psyguy]

There was a GS1000S in '82-'83 that had a 16-valve motor. But that was a "Katana". You are correct in that the rest were 8-valve.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

yea, i figured... you see in europe we never called them (or considered them) gs, only "katana"
thanks

[intemadater]

Well, i checked the compression after running it for awhile and it is only 75psi on cyl 1 and the rest are within a couple of pounds. i removed both cams and the head. i used carb cleaner in both the exhaust and intake ports but did not notice any leaks. i will probbably go ahead and reseat them and rering the motor before going back together. then reshim the valves. It is a 8 valve motor and thanks alot for all the replies from everyone.

[BassCliff]

Mr. intemadater,

Lousy compression numbers could be due to improper valve clearances. Try the easy stuff first.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff