Plug wires education

[Dogma]

Hello again helpful people,

Can someone direct me to a place where I can get educated on plug wires & caps, or at least give me a quick schooling? I tried searching for answers, but they seem to be scattered in bits & pieces.

How do I evaluate whether to replace the plug wires? I don't see any visually discernible defects, but maybe there is more to consider. Should I replace them just because they are 28 years old? If so, what should they be replaced with?

I saw a link to NGK caps at Z1, but I don't really know what sort of wires to match up with these. Z1 doesn't specify whether they only work with a specific diameter wire, or what type of core the wire should have, etc.

In short, I know just about nothing about evaluating and selecting plug wires

Thanks in advance,

[Kcwiro]

if your ends of your caps are cracked or show other forms a being 'weathered' I'd just replace them. They are not that expensive anyway, though all info you really need to know if your replacing the entire plug just mind the degree bend at the tops that head to your coil.

Hope this helps

[Nessism]

The plug wires are not generally replaceable on the stock coils. Some people have success with digging them out of the coil but it's a YMMV sort of thing.

The stock wires are solid core copper with a resistor cap. You can either go this way or supressor wires, like a car, and non resistor cap. Both work.

My opinion is to go with the new caps and keep the old wires unless you are sure there is a problem. If necessary, try to get the old wire out - can't hurt to try.

[Dogma]

Thanks guys. New caps then. Are the new NGK caps pretty much one-size-fits-all with regard to wire?

[psyguy]

Thanks guys. New caps then. Are the new NGK caps pretty much one-size-fits-all with regard to wire?

as far as i know they'll take both 7mm and 8mm dia wires
your wires are 7mm
if the wires are long enough, snipp off 1/2 inch or so at the end before fitting new caps - this will ensure better connection (and the ends of the old wires are often weathered/cracked)

[Dogma]

I believe I have enough wire left, so I will definitely make sure to get some clean conductor when I install the caps. Thanks. I can't wait to see how this this runs after waiting 28 years for a tune-up.

[SPARKSS]

The plug wires are not generally replaceable on the stock coils. Some people have success with digging them out of the coil but it's a YMMV sort of thing.

The stock wires are solid core copper with a resistor cap. You can either go this way or supressor wires, like a car, and non resistor cap. Both work.

My opinion is to go with the new caps and keep the old wires unless you are sure there is a problem. If necessary, try to get the old wire out - can't hurt to try.

Good advice Ness. I'll just add some notes I made for my 79 Gs1000 with respect to the above. Wires can be checked for arcing to ground by spraying them with either water, or better yet a solution of water and a little ammonia.
NGK RESISTOR CAPS (for use with the copper wires) have 5k ohms resistance. NGK PART NUMBERS - XB05FP (inner cylinders 2, 3) and VB05FB for outer cylinders 1, 4.

And just some additional info related - STOCK COILS - PRIMARY 4.5 ohms
SECONDARY 10-11K ohms (less spark resistor caps).

[Dogma]

Thanks for the details. Unfortunately, more info has resulted in more confusion. Z1 doesn't list the numbers you give. For example, Z1 has XB05F and VB05F, but not XB05FP or VB05FB. Information I can find allows for the FP ending but not FB. The ending P should be the waterproof cap, which Z1 claims without including in the part number. I guess I'll just have to clarify that when I order, or find a source that follows the complete naming protocol. I definitely want the waterproofing. I've been on the side of the road without it once before.

[SPARKSS]

Thanks for the details. Unfortunately, more info has resulted in more confusion. Z1 doesn't list the numbers you give. For example, Z1 has XB05F and VB05F, but not XB05FP or VB05FB. Information I can find allows for the FP ending but not FB. The ending P should be the waterproof cap, which Z1 claims without including in the part number. I guess I'll just have to clarify that when I order, or find a source that follows the complete naming protocol. I definitely want the waterproofing. I've been on the side of the road without it once before.

Here's a link to the details you want.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/performance/resistor_covers.asp?mode=nml

Download the pdf......good info.
I'd say change that VB05FB TO VB05FP.......at the time (maybe 12 years ago) I was selling NGK products and thought I'd copied that info correctly......I'd say either the info has changed (not likely) or I just put 'er down wrong

[Dogma]

Aha! Definitive data! I think. I found a similar chart earlier, that included some other options. Apparently the product line has been simplified. I'll have to explore that link some more. It looks like someplace I could learn a bit.