Resetting the automatic cam chain adjuster.

[brs127s]

I know this topic has been visited several times, and I am sorry for revisiting it, but I have to ask.

During my top end rebuild I decided to replace my cam chain. I broke the old and new chains, fed the new chain around the crank, and repeened the link where I broke it. Now, assuming that my old chain had stretched some, I will need to back out my adjuster and reset it. Can someone tell me how to do this?


Thanks.



P.S. Hap and Scotty--Sorry, I didn't take any pictures when I replaced the cam chain. There really wasn't a whole lot to it. I used my buddy's chain break/riveter, which made it very easy. I pushed a pin from the old chain to the point where I could just seperate the chain. You don't want to push it completely through. I then did the same with the new chain. Then you put one end of the new chain together with one end of the old chain. I can't remember which chain and pin I used, but I then pressed one of the pins over halfway back through the new/old joint. Once this was done, I rotated the crank and fed the old chain out of the engine and the new chain around the crank. I pushed the pin back out of the temporary joint and connected both ends of the new chain together. I pushed the pin through the joint and repeened the pin. I peened it at three points on the edge of the pin, so it is better than the factory 2 point peen. I checked to see if the repeened link was to tight, and it was. I then took the press and pushed the pin slightly one direction, then back. This freed the link up, and it is as good as new.

Now, I may catch alot of flack from folks, saying it is unsafe to break endless chain and repeen it together, but it works. My buddy has done it on many ATV's for years. Also, several of the shops I talked to do the same procedure, they just don't warranty the chain, but none of them ever had one come back because of the cam chain coming apart. Besides, why would they make a breaker/press for this purpose?

[TheNose]

My Suzuki service manual for GS750 series bikes says:

"While turning the handle (the round knob on the tensioner) counterclockwise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in the reverse direction (thus causing the chain to push back the tensioner).

Release the handle and slowly turn back the crankshaft in normal running direction (to slacken that portion of the chain extending along the tensioner). See if the handle rotates by itself as the chain becomes progressively slackened; if it does, then the pushrod inside is oviously moving forward under spring force as it should, thus signififying that the tensioner is in good operable condition. If the handle rotates, but sluggishly, it means that the pushrod or lock shaft is sticking and, in such a case, remove the tensioner and service the pushrod and lock shaft to make them move smoothly. Caution - After installing the tensioner and checking it in initially set condition for operation do not attempt to turn the handle in either direction until the next overhaul."

To turn the engine, use a wrench on the large nut that is under the ignition cover. Good luck.

Terry

[Billy Ricks]

Go back through the Tips and Tricks section for a post on cam chain tensioners. I believe srivett made the original post. I gave a description on how to check it as per the manual.

[saaz]

No problem with replacing the camchain that way. I did it years ago on my GS1000, 70,000kms later....no problems!

Follow the above procedure for adjustment. The locknut has the be undone enough to allow the adjuster to work. While it is out, it is a good idea to grease the shaft. The adjuster works by applying pressure to the angled end of the sfat. To ensure smooth movement greasing helps. My original adjuster pitted the emd of the shaft, hence the adjuster stuck sometimes..not good for camchain life.

[Anonymous]

yes I did start the thread.

I've also noticed that endless cam chains come with rivet links. That is a good indication that, if done right, it is good practice to use them.

Steve