Abso-freakin-lutely STUMPED

[Zooks]

I'm gonna try the suggestion about pushing the M/C piston in further to get more air out. Is it possible that the M/C piston could be leaking air in??

This is exactly why I asked if you were getting any pressure at all. I would also be keen to know if the pressure that you do get lasts, or does it fade away after a little while. I am wondering if the piston is working properly in the cylinder. Any chance you may have dragged some crap (grit) into it ?

[Escobarclan]

Well guys, thanks for the feedback. Went and got a vac kit "mityvac", didn't do anything noticable. Then took the M/C off and moved it around while pumping it and it got alittle better.

Then I got the calipers off and tapped them with a mallet alittle and that got me where I am now. The handle wont bottom out but it"s still a little spongy, I'm getting more and more sure it's the anti-dive valves soaking a little of the pressure.

Thanks for your help, once again, I've got some new pics on the 'owner's side if you want to see this baby emerging.

[KTA]

I have been using small syringes to bleed my brakes for years with great results. I buy small plastic syringes from the Home Depot painting center, a pack of two is about $4.

I fill them with fluid and force the fluid from the caliper bleed valve up through the system forcing all the air to pop out up top. It works like a charm, is very easy, and costs $4.

But I bet your MC is shot. Take it off, put your thumb over the hole where the hose connects and pump the lever. You should build up pressure pushing your thumb off.

[bwringer]

Braking is over rated. *
Take off the M/C cap and lever. Push the piston in with a phillip screwdriver and watch all the tiny bubbles rise out of the M/C. The brake lever doesn't push the piston all the way into the M/C to get that last bit of air out.
Too bleed out the M/C take off the line leading into the union from the M/C and dunk it into the resevoir and push the piston in with the screwdriver.

Sing with me
Tiny bubbles.............

This procedure is AKA bench bleeding. YOU MUST DO THIS if your M/C has slurped up air. You can't bench bleed by just yanking on the brake lever. You have to push the piston further as noted above. After that, proceed with vacuum bleeding, etc.

It's true that the anti-dive type forks with rubber hoses are pretty spongy. If the brake will pump up, that's a sign there's air in the system. If it's just spongy no matter what, then all the air is probably out.

You'll get some improvement by simply blocking off the anti-dive bits (you'll need a couple of really short 10mmX1mm thread bolts). And if you haven't already, throw in some modern brake pads -- this makes a big difference. Ancient Suzuki brake pads don't work very well at all.

Add in stainless lines, and you'll be extremely happy.