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    #16
    Looks like some oil in there. Change the valve stem seals and how are the rings?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #17
      Other adjustments...
      Also if the floats are all out of whack it will lead to different fuel mixtures in the different cylinders. Worth a look, someone may have messed with it at some time. Is it a coincidence that the order rich to lean is the same as the relative position when the bike is on the side stand? Could it have run for a long time on the stand?
      Maybe it was parked forever on the stand and somehow gunked up the float valves?
      Not sure.
      I guess I would go through the whole carb procedure, from cleaning, to orings, to plug chops, then you will know.
      Last edited by tkent02; 03-18-2008, 06:35 PM.
      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

      Life is too short to ride an L.

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        #18
        as far as i remember it was running great as of fall. i just took it all apart to replace the valve cover gasket (it was seeping oil, not bad, but just didn't like the oil mess) and check clearances. while i was at it i fixed that hole in the airbox and replaced the seal on the lid, since there wasn't much left. when i pulled the valve cover i saw those cams, and wanted to check every thing out. So i pulled the head since i had the cams out, head gasket was also seeping some and there is only 12 more nuts to take off to pull the head, plus it is easier to clean now with the exhaust off.

        so far it looks like oil should be getting up there to the cam fine havn't blasted air through the passages yet, but probably will this weekend.

        i just noticed it was looking like the 2 cylinders were running hot when i pulled the head. all last year I never noticed it burning any oil, it never smoked, it ran great. oil level stayed constant. (probably should have done a compression test, but i thought it ran great, so didn't do that (also didn't think i would find a cam that would look scored)

        if i adjust those carbs should it go back to having a good burn if everything else is fine?

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          #19
          Just go through the carbs completely and be done with it. Replace the various o-rings, verify the float level, set the pilot screws to a consistent level, and make sure everything is spotlessly clean. Sync after you get the engine back together and final set the pilots to the highest idle method.

          Regarding the head, replacing the valve stem oil seals is standard pratice since you already have the head off.

          Good luck.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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            #20
            Yeah, hard to tell but it sure looks as if it's pumping oil.

            What was the compression before?

            As others have said, you have no reason not to pull the springs out and check the valve stems, lap the valves and replace the valve stem seals.

            You should also replace the base gasket if you disturb the head nuts like you've done.

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              #21
              I did get a base gasket, headgasket, oil pan gasket, and breaker gasket, and all new washers for the head and new exhaust gaskets & bolts.

              The P.O. told me that the carbs were cleaned & sync'd at 20,000. (how good of a job i dont know, but it ran excellent all last year) i now only have 25,000 on it and it was running excellent in fall so when i put it back together i have no doubt it will be no differant i put stabil in back in fall.

              like i said i didn't do a compression test, i was planning on getting to the head gasket and various other stuff next year, but i saw that cam and just wanted to make sure it was getting oil to the top end.. glad i did rip it apart, because its much easier to clean/ nice to clean up the oil pan... plus will anti-sieze everything before i put it back together, so if i want to do more stuff next year, it should come apart easily.

              not sure on how to do the valve seals. i have never really touched valves when i take a motor apart. how hard/$ is that / what is involved? i have already spent close to $400 and havn't been able to ride it yet this year. so didn't really want to spend much more. but if it isn't too bad, when i go to get my tires put on this weekend i may order the stuff i need to do the valves. what would i need to order?

              or if anyone knows of a better / cheaper place to order stuff than the stealer, or bikebandit. (cheaper to order kits?)

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                #22
                This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Kbecker3 View Post

                  not sure on how to do the valve seals. i have never really touched valves when i take a motor apart. how hard/$ is that / what is involved? i have already spent close to $400 and havn't been able to ride it yet this year. so didn't really want to spend much more. but if it isn't too bad, when i go to get my tires put on this weekend i may order the stuff i need to do the valves. what would i need to order?
                  Valve stem seals are about $2 ea, there are 16 of them on your bike. They should have come in your gasket set. Takes a few hours, not really any special tools or knowledge required. Valve lapping takes some lapping compound and a piece of hose.
                  Not a big deal if the head is off already.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

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                    #24
                    put new tires on yesterday while it was all apart, looks a little empty...

                    anyway please let me know if i have missed anything.... since i have it all apart, i have now ordered the valve stem seals. i just ordered new piston rings. and carb. o-rings... i will now start to put it all back together. hone the cylinders, toss the new rings in. take the valves apart and place new seals in, and then check valve clearances, and bolt back together. Then go throught the carbs, and replace o-rings, and clean everything up. Then sync carbs. and hopefully it should be great to ride for quite some time! :-D

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