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    Question about removing pilot screw

    I'll be jumping into cleaning my carbs this weekend per the Carb cleanup series and I have a question regarding the pilot screws. It seems my carbs don't have a press-fit aluminum cap to drill out, but rather some sort of paste/sealant/goop in the pilot screw orifice. I plan on scraping as much out as I can and then using carb cleaner and or deep creep to try and get the screw out. If that doesn't work I may try to boil the carb body to get a little expansion action going. Anyone else have any suggestions to get this goop out? Similar experiences?

    TIA

    #2
    Originally posted by JTsGS650 View Post
    I'll be jumping into cleaning my carbs this weekend per the Carb cleanup series and I have a question regarding the pilot screws. It seems my carbs don't have a press-fit aluminum cap to drill out, but rather some sort of paste/sealant/goop in the pilot screw orifice. I plan on scraping as much out as I can and then using carb cleaner and or deep creep to try and get the screw out. If that doesn't work I may try to boil the carb body to get a little expansion action going. Anyone else have any suggestions to get this goop out? Similar experiences?

    TIA
    If you're talking about the pilot mixture screw located on the engine side of the carb, why do you want to take it out? The goal is only to turn it a 1/2 turn or so at a time to get the bike running better at idle and initial throttle opening. You don't want to bugger up this screw and create a bigger headache.

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      #3
      I'm planning on completely stripping down the carbs and dipping them. I thought this was pretty much standard procedure for a thorough carb cleaning. The bike was sitting for a few years before I began fixing it up. I pulled the carbs and gave them an initial cleaning last year to get most of the schmutz out, but I'm sure they could be cleaner then they are now...

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        #4
        Yes, fully strip the carbs. Many people are too timid when it comes time to clean the carbs and they wind up with a poorly running engine thereafter defeating the purpose.

        I assume you have VM carbs with a pilot fuel screw on the bottom and air screw on the side. These screws were sealed over with some sort of white paint/sealer after being adjusted by the factory. Carb cleaner eats through the paint pretty well so you shouldn't have too much trouble. Just make sure the screwdriver you use fits the screw head tightly.

        Good luck.
        Ed

        To measure is to know.

        Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

        Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

        Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

        KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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          #5
          Permatex gasket remover.

          It's good to see that you are doing it the right way. I tried cheating on my dad's carbs with no success, however, after a dipped them, they perform like new... along with the new o-rings. \\/

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            #6
            Whoops

            Originally posted by Nessism View Post
            Yes, fully strip the carbs. Many people are too timid when it comes time to clean the carbs and they wind up with a poorly running engine thereafter defeating the purpose.

            I assume you have VM carbs with a pilot fuel screw on the bottom and air screw on the side. These screws were sealed over with some sort of white paint/sealer after being adjusted by the factory. Carb cleaner eats through the paint pretty well so you shouldn't have too much trouble. Just make sure the screwdriver you use fits the screw head tightly.

            Good luck.
            Actually, I have CV carbs. And after closer inspection it turns out that I don't even have a pilot mixture screw and the orifice was just full of 25 years of crap. But, uh, thanks for you replies and wish me luck. 8-[

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