Stuck valve cover, how to break free?

[madadam]

regards the freezing temperatures - why not warm the engine up before using the mallet
i would also leave the cover unbolted, the engine vibrations should help - and if you see an oil leak somewhere - thats the spot where you want to pry the cover off

That's not a bad idea... but it will take a bit of work. Besides the reassembly, my bike doesn't really like to start when it's this cold, let alone sitting for several months already. But, nothing else is working so I'll give this a try.

I'll be sure to use the centrestand afterwards as well, thanks for that tip.

Thanks,
Adam

[lurch12_2000]

For sure. I've been tapping a few times, then trying to lift it off (just by hand, not prying it).

I'm beginning to question whether it's worth checking the clearances after all.

Depends on the last time valves were checked by you and how far off they were. I wouldn't try to start it to warm it, but if you want, you can using a hair dryer to break a slight ice seal which might be holding you up.

I think at this point you should consider a good quality 2" putty knife to gently tap between the valve cover and the gasket. If you get a little marring it would be on the cover side so you could touch it up when it is off.
I am talking about tapping it in a couple of places before trying to twist the knife to break the seal.
I very lightly coated my new gasket with grease to keep it in place when putting the cover back in place and hopefully to keep it from sticking (like your's is now) for the next time you do adjustments. Even with the paper gasket I only "2 fingered" the bolts when tightening. Do not over torque!
Check the 8 cam hold down bolts when you're in there as a couple of mine were slightly loose. Again do not over torque these!

[Smokinapankake]

I've heard (but don't know how true it is) that torqueing a bolt, then retorqueing at some later time (like next time you check valves), and doing this every time you have the cover off, will stretch the bolts until eventually they snap. I'd be particularly careful with the cam bearing journal bolts. How much would that suck to break one of those off? I've never done it but I'm sure some others here have.

This, of course, if you get that cover off in the first place.....

[Pete Logan]

I've heard (but don't know how true it is) that torqueing a bolt, then retorqueing at some later time (like next time you check valves), and doing this every time you have the cover off, will stretch the bolts until eventually they snap.

OK - the actual measure of how you tighten a bolt is stretch.

For every bolt, of every strength, there is a correct measure of stretch to make it work right. You need a dialer to measure it, but you can't always get one in there, so we use an approximation.

Torque is an approximation of stretch. That is, it is assumed that for the same bolt, the same amount of twisting power will produce the same degree of stretch.

Bolts once stretched will retain some degree of stretch when they are released.

So your assumption is in principle correct. If you keep stretching them, then sooner or later they will break.

That said, if the manufacturer's torque recommendations (ie: stretch) are well within the capabilities of the bolt, perhaps the bolt can tolerate being stretched that much for quite a number of times without a problem.

Personally, I prefer the equation:-

Cost of Bolt - Cost of Buggering everything up = NoBrainer :-D

Of course, I reuse bolts, nuts, and anything else I can.

But only if there are no stress issues involved.

I also use cereal packets to make gaskets out of.

Not head gaskets, though :-D

It's horses for courses, but if you are at all concerned about the bolt, buy a new one (or 20).

[Junkie]

That depends on how much you're stretching it. If you're staying in the zone of elastic deformation, it'll be fine forever (or damn near). If you're deforming it plastically, you'll have a limited lifetime. I'm guessing the torque specs are low enough that you aren't getting that close to plastic deformation.

[anikmankar]

If you have warmed the engine to take the covers off. Make sure you let the engine remain as is over night before checking the valve clearances.

[Kcwiro]

I had a simular issue on my rebuild project.. I used a pulley hanging from a ceiling hook and ran rope a few times under teh middle section of the valve cover and pulled with a guy tapping gently at the cover... it came right off when with the weight of the bike holding it down =0)

Also as said before make sure you removed all your bolts:-D

[psyguy]

That said, if the manufacturer's torque recommendations (ie: stretch) are well within the capabilities of the bolt, perhaps the bolt can tolerate being stretched that much for quite a number of times without a problem.

very true
now, i love my gs but unfortunately suzuki didnt bother much with such "details" i think
in principle, the best practice is to replace old bolts as a precaution as you're likely to snap a few during an engine re-build (especially it the mileage is high)
...and then theres the story of that soft alu alloy and the new bolts stripping the threads

btw, the torque measure is not an aproximation of strech (since different materials strech differently) but a measure of the tension (rotational pressure) between the bolt head and the seat

[Shin-Ken 1074]

Hi psyguy, you've done a fantastic job with the block and side covers on Bruno, good one mate.

[Pete Logan]

That depends on how much you're stretching it. If you're staying in the zone of elastic deformation, it'll be fine forever (or damn near). If you're deforming it plastically, you'll have a limited lifetime. I'm guessing the torque specs are low enough that you aren't getting that close to plastic deformation.

True that - as an example, wheel lugs on cars last forever with multiple do/undo's.

I guess I was just thinking if there's any doubt at all then replacement is quite cheap compared to the costs of a failure. Especially inside an engine.

[spyug]

As previously mentioned, I think you should wait a bit for warmer weather. It is far too cold up here to work in an unheated area. Working in the cold can cause problems, the metal is more brittle and a tap in the wrong area can cause a crack or worse. Accidents also can happen to fingers so be careful. If you must work on her, use a halogen spot light about 6 to 8 inches away to heat up the work area. A half hour or so and it should be toasty.

Working on the side cover should only be done with a rubber headed mallet IMHO.Tap around in a clockwise method and eventually it will come. As also mentioned, a 2 inch putty knife inserted between cover and engine case works well to push things apart.

When reassembling, the trick of rubbing axle grease into both sides of the gasket works well to ensure a good tight seal and will allow the side cover to come off easier next time. Good tip which you can use on all your gaskets ( other than cylinder head and base gaskets).

While I really want to get a few things done too I'm resisting working in the man room until the temps at least get into the pluses. Two to three more weeks ought to do it.

Good luck with your projects.

Cheers,
Spyug.

[madadam]

Giving up for now

Well I think for the sake of my own sanity I will wait another few weeks for the weather to warm up a bit.

I tried the plastic scraper trick, but I can't get it to actually penetrate. I tap and push, but the scraper breaks before the gasket does. It might work better when it's warm, since plastic gets much more brittle at low temp (like most materials).

It's frustrating since this is one of those things that I've been meaning to get to since I got the bike. The kms are low enough that I doubt there's a problem, but I figured I might as well check while the bike is just sitting there. That's what I get for being proactive!

I guess I'll look for something else I can do for now (maybe something small enough to bring inside )

Thanks for all the replies.

Cheers,
Adam

[tkent02]

I guess I'll look for something else I can do for now (maybe something small enough to bring inside )

Why not bring the whole bike inside?
Better to ask forgiveness than permission on that one.

[madadam]

Why not bring the whole bike inside?
Better to ask forgiveness than permission on that one.

Hehe.. it's not that I havn't considered it...

It was hard enough squeezing my bike into the shed (narrow door), I cringe at the thought of trying to get it up the five or six stairs, through the door, around some corners, and down the narrow staircase into the basement. And I'm sure getting it in would be much easier than getting it back out!

Nah, I'll just wait for spring

[spyug]

Good call on the postponing of work and the decision to not bring her indoors. Stinks up the joint and makes the boss really annoyed.

There was a good long thread on the GTAForums site where a dude in Toronto was bound and bent on bringing his sportbike down a flight of stairs to a basement apartment. Despite numerous arguments against it he was (at last post) determined to do it. I don't know how it turned out but I can see it ending in tears.

As I mentioned, I have an unheated man room to work in but after building my XS street tracker there over the winter of 06/07 I can't muster up the enthusiasm any more to work in the cold and I'm too busy shovelling snow these days.

If you were some how able to pull the engine you could likely muscle it into the basement to work on. If you are really motivated, you could take off the front and back end, seat, tank and everything else you can find get a box o beer and a couple of brawny buddies and drag the frame and motor indoors. Leave the tank in the shed.

Better idea....just put your feet up.....or catch up on your household projects ( and keep the boss happy) 'til the 24 weekend. Weather should be good by then:-D

Cheers,
Spyug