Do these steps sound right?

[Splittie]

Now What??

Well I installed the inlet tubes got it all back together and I STILL CAN"T GET IT TO FIRE UP WITHOUT RUNNING THE BATTERY DOWN!!
One question that I have, what should my battery be reading for output sitting with key on and then while cranking?
I can get the bike to start with the battery charger/jumper hooked up.
Battery reads (If I remember right) @ 11.7 sitting and then drops to around 9 or less when cranking.
Do I need a different or bigger battery?
What size should I be running?
I can pick one up today from Interstate Battery if I know what size to get.
Tha current one is a new one from WalleyWorld I think it was a 12--- series(Unsure cuz I'm at work now)
Thanks for any help[-o<

[BassCliff]

A couple more suggestions...

Hi Mr. Splittie,

If you're going to get an Interstate battery, I think you need this one (YB14L-A2). Other manufacturers make similar batteries. I think you can even get a compatible one at Wal-Mart. I recently got a Yuasa AGM (maintenance-free) battery for my bike and I think it's great. As for your charging system issues, have you read the Stator Papers and followed the troubleshooting guide? Other things to check (even though you mention that some of these have already been fixed/checked/adjusted):

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
11. Clean carburetors!

Cold starting issues are most often related to tight valve clearances. But check your charging system too. If it eventually starts while giving it a jump then you may have a combination of both issues.

Nice work replacing the intake boots. I am not looking forward to doing that on my bike. It's kind of a big job. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Steve]

The link that BassCliff gave you for the Interstate battery shows that it's available for about $46.
For just a little more ($63) you can get a sealed battery from Batteries Plus.
Besides never having to check your electrolyte level again, you will get better cranking power, too. \\/

.

[themess]

Battery reads (If I remember right) @ 11.7 sitting and then drops to around 9 or less when cranking.

Your battery isn't charged, and it might be worn out.

[Splittie]

Your battery isn't charged, and it might be worn out.

That was my thoughts on it but I just got the thing new and charged it up,
So I may have too small of a battery?
The battery that I have is a 12____-___
I think I need a 14____-___

[TheCafeKid]

You should have about 12+ amps when sitting, stay bout that when cranking, and have around 13-14 when running if i remember correctly. You already bought a NEW battery, or is this still the one that came with it? If the original, its likely an old batt, might as well get something newer. You can get a sealed type, which means no maintainance, as most of the old batteries you have to check from time to time so make sure the electrolyte level is at optimum level.

[themess]

That was my thoughts on it but I just got the thing new and charged it up,
So I may have too small of a battery?
The battery that I have is a 12____-___
I think I need a 14____-___

If it doesn't read close to 12.6V with no load, there are only three possibilities.

1) It's very, very cold - about ready to freeze the acid
2) Your meter is bad
3) The battery is bad

I believe that you need a 14L-A2. Almost anyplace that sells motorcycle batteries has a chart that correctly identifies which size you need. Still, the voltage doesn't depend on the size and shape of the battery. Voltage depends on the nature of the chemical reaction, in this case, lead vs sulfuric acid. Battery size affects the amperage. Both voltage and amperage are needed. When the bike is warm and well-tuned, slightly lower amperage won't make much of a difference. When voltage is low, amperage is always low. Low voltage affects everything.